trouble grouping with broadheads

[VinnieB]

i just switched to shooting 2016's with 125 grain muzzy's. they fly good with the set up but i can't seem to put two of them next to each other at 15 yards. i can do it somewhat with fieldtips but not at all with broadheads. is it simply something wrong with me and my form could it be my set up.

[jonesy]

How close are you stacking them? If it's within a couple inches they should be fine, anyway if you start stacking them to were there touching you will start to damage shafts.Jonesy

[jhansen]

Broadheads add an additional steering surface up front that fights the fletching for control.  This magnifies any deficiency in tuning and/or shooter form.  Once you figure out what the problem is you can correct it.  Your broadhead tipped arrows should shoot to the same point of impact as your fieldpoints and group just as closely.  Just shoot one arrow and pull it to prevent damage to arrows from broadheads.

John

[Diamond Paul]

Make sure the broadheads spin perfectly, first.  If you have one of those spin testers, use it.  I always spin mine on some hard, smooth surface, like a glass counter top.  If you see any sign of a wobble where the broadhead meets the shaft, they won't fly true.  Those little arrow shaft trueing devices sold by G5 are great.  You can make the end of your shaft perfectly square, and the face of the insert as well.  I think O. L. Adcock would probably say that you have some small tuning issue, based on what he says in his website on fine tuning your arrows.  I don't know the address, but I believe he's a sponsor here.  Great advice on arrow tuning. . .

[cvarcher]

OK Diamond Paul has a point. The broadheads must be mounted square on .Just spin the arrow on the tip of the broadhead and see if theres a wobble.But thats only one possibilty.Are you using plastic fletch by any chance that have taken a bad curved set. Have enough feather to stabilize the arrow.Is the arrows spine correct .Is the nock mounted squarely.Are you plucking on release? ... Go over all this  individually.

[bgram]

Which bow are you shooting the 2016's with? What is your draw and bow weight at your draw.  I see you listed a Montana at 50lb @ 26", is that 50 at your draw or is it a 50lb bow at 28" and you only draw 26"?  Same with the recurve, is it 45 at 25" or is it listed at 45lb at 28"?  If you are only drawing 25-26", the 2016's may be too stiff, especially if you have them cut to your draw length.  2016s are pretty versitle arrows, but if you are only drawing 25 or 26 inches, and not reaching the weight listed on the bows @28", you are pulling most likely 6 to 9 pounds less than advertised.  Which arrows did you switch from?  How were they setup for you?  With field tips, stiff arrows will still somewhat group with one another, but when you put a larger broadhead on, they'll cause them to weaken a bit more, but you are also putting more in the front for drag.  Can you try any other field tips, heavier ones like 145 to 175?  Might be able to see if that'll help with the grouping too.

[vermonster13]

Well I see you say you can group fieldtips "somewhat" if you aren't getting those tight, BHs can magnify form and release flaws.

[Woodduck]

Do a test, similar to  bareshaft test with your field points and then see where the broadhead tipped arrow impacts...and tune accordingly.

[Alsea]

Good advice above. You can quickly find out what's up by stripping the fletch off of one of those shafts and shoot it bareshaft at 20 yds., using a fieldtip of the same weight as your BH. If it hits a foot or more weak (right for RH shooter), you need to drop down in point weight or shorten shaft. If it hits stiff, go up in point weight. You can tune a little by building out the shelf, but that is best left for fine tuning your set up. It's important to get the right arrow spine close to begin with. You will never shoot BH's that group consistantly until you have the right spine for the bow. Form is not enough to correct it, it will just frustrate you.