Help tuning grizzlystik's

[coyote2]

Ok this is my set up A&H ACS CX right hand 55# @28" I draw it 28.5
I tryed the Alaskan shafts frist a full shaft 32.5" with 75gr insert and 250gr point they are way to stiff fletched shafts grouped 6" right of the bear shafts so now I have some stka shafts and they are 31" long 75gr insert 200gr point the fletched shafts are grouping with the bear shafts but they are hitting 8" left of where I am shooting witch would say that they are over spined I was thinking that maybe they are under spined alot and it is showing stiff so do you guy's think I should cut them down some also I tryed a 125 gr point and it did not change things or is it something els thanks,Jared<><

[Scott J. Williams]

I have some Alaskan Shafts that shoot fine out of my Widow which is about your same draw weight. Make sure that when you do your bare shafting, that the arrow is set-up the same as the ones with feathers.  What I mean is, if you have a cap, or painted crown make sure they all have the same.  Fletch the bare shaft and cut the feathers off, leaving the quill.  Now, remember when shooting for tune, nocking point is the first order of business.  Your left and rights can be controlled by your brace height, some will insist that arrow plate is the key for this, my experience tells me that brace height is where it's at. One other thing, bare shaft tune is the starting point for most of us.  further tuning will be done when we shoot our broadheads and field points together. Why?  because a bare shaft will spine slightly weaker than the same arrow with feathers, it's called drag.  That is why many archers will bare shaft(right handed)for the bare shaft to impact just to the right of the spot, so when they attach the feathers it will hit in the spot.  Everything you put on the back of that will stiffen it, so except for the feathers, make them equal.

[jonsimoneau]

Yea, coyote I'd something else is going on there.  I've been shooting alaskans out of my Dakota that is 55lbs, and I too draw 28 inches.  My shafts are 29 inches long. They have the brass insert in them and a 125 grain head plus an aluminum adapter.  Fly great.

[katman]

coyote2, make sure you pay attention to the seam in the shaft, its orientation to the nock effects spine. Seam aligned with cock feather is the stiffest. I switched from the stock nocks to the uni bushing and G nock so I could easily rotate the nock to adjust the spine/tune the arrow also.

Sounds like the Sitkas are way under spined/long. I also have an ACSCX 55@28 draw 28.5 and my Sitkas are 29" 75 brass insert with 200gr point. Like Ed likes to say, 'fly like darts'. I did have to build up the strike plate to get the arrow to hit where I am looking. Good luck.