Non center shot Bow Shooting?

[Roy from Pa]

I know from experience that I shoot so much better with a center shot Bow. However since I have been making my own BBO Bows and I have not been cutting them to center, I hit right a lot, which I know equals an arrow too weak in spine. And I really need to shoot stiffer arrows to correct my hitting right. But I got to thinking today about this hitting right thing I have. I shoot 1 finger over the arrow and just stare at the spot I want to hit. I do however like to glance down at the top of the arrow shaft for a second to get myself inline with the spot. And I was thinking today, that with my non center shot bows, at full draw my arrow tip is actually sticking out to the left by a good 3/8th to 1/2 inch. Now I remember from my compound days that I would have to move the front sight in the direction I was missing left or right to bring my shots into the spot. So with a compound with sights and I was missing right, I would move the front sight to the right and that would move my arrow groups to the left. So like I said, I was thinking about this tonight and I hit right a lot like I said and therefore I thought that this could be because of the arrow sticking so much out to the left of a non center shot Bow. And using the point of the arrow to get in line would be like having the front sight too far to the left. So I am wondering if this is the reason I shoot right a lot.. Seems to me that if I would cut some wood out of the riser to move the arrow to the right, this would be the same as moving the front sight to the right.  

LOL, hope that all made sense:) Thanks Roy

[SHOOTO8S]

Roy....most likey, the problem is the fletch end of a too stiff arrow, slapping the shelf, which moves the rear of the arrow to the left and the point to the right. which gives a false weak arrow indication. A simple test would be to use spray foot powder on your bows shelf and sight window, to check for interference...with the powder you can see contact marks and its very possible(i.e. well tuned) to have only contact marks on the shelf and side plate where the arrow sits.

Thinking of the arrow point like a sight would be correct on a center shot bow....but on a non-centershot bow....the arrow is still pointing to the left and correct spine is way to compensate for that.

[laddy]

To check for that wouldn't it be better to spray the feathered end of the shaft?

[Roy from Pa]

Thanks Rod, I'll try that. No Laddy.

[Art B]

Could be a lot of things Roy. What's your bow's weight and arrows spined at? Type of string and brace heigth would help also. Brace height to low can cause a whipping effect as can a stretchy string. How much arrow shaft you got sticking out past your bow when at full draw. That can cause your arrow to hit right of target as well. Could be a lot of things, even a worn tab or glove. Your string tracking true?

Cutting your bow closer to center is only going to require a stiffer shaft. Why don't you pad out your arrow pass until your arrow moves left. Hope you're doing well.-ART B

[Roy from Pa]

Thanks Art. Bow weight is 45 at my 27.5 draw, wooden arrows static spine at 40 pounds, 5 inch high shield turkey feathers. B-50 12 strand Flemish string, 6 1/4 brace height, 3 inches of arrow shaft sticks out past the back of the shelf. Why would the amount of arrow shaft out past the Bow at full draw matter Art? Upon release, isn't the arrow shaft forced into the side of the riser, making the arrow shaft bend to the right in the middle, thus moving the tip of the arrow to the left. I shoot right handed, forgot to mention that.

[Art B]

You're using a 40# (static spine) arrow 3" longer then your 27.5" draw length. Is that correct Roy? That's a 30.5" arrow with a dynamic spine of less then 30# if you're using the standard 125gr point (static spine is set at 28" using a 125gr point).

Twelve strands of the B-50 is fine for 45# but 14 is better IMO. I shoot about the same weight bows as you and I really like the 14 strand string. Plus it'll have less stretch and makes for a snapper bow. Again, just my opinion.

On these around the handle bows those 5" shield feathers of your won't correct as quick as 5 1/2" ers. Or to put it another way, the smaller fletch lets the arrow stay in paradox longer. My buddy just found that out with his set-up. That's true about the arrow bending in the middle upon release Roy. But with longer arrows I believe you'll get an additional bend at the tip. Kind of like a lazy "S" instead of this ")" with the shorter arrows. I shoot arrows 4-6" longer then my draw length but I can easily shoot heavier spined arrows then my bow calls for. Just "my theory" on that though.-ART B

[Roy from Pa]

Well Art, now that ya got me all confused here. I'm gonna try some carbons:)  NOT

The shafts I bought were 40 - 45 at full length of 32 inches. My bow is non center shot at 45 pounds at 27.5 inches. The shafts on the spine checker range from 41 to 45. Doesn't matter how long they are, the spine checker only checks them at 26 inches. Now the spine of the arrows when shot will be different than the static spine, right? And when I cut them shorter, the static spine will still be 40 - 45 but the dynamic spine will increase. So maybe the arrows need to be shortened a bit more, right?

[Art B]

Those 40-45# shafts of yours are only 40-45# if you"re making 28" BOP finished arrows. Leave 'em full length and you have around 25-30# arrows (subtract 5# for every inch over 28").Reading you're getting on your tester is for a finished arrow of of 28" using a 125gr point. Forget about that 26" Roy, that's just the distant between the tester's end post, nothing else. So yes, shorten your arrows.-ART B

[aromakr]

Roy:
Listen to Art, he's speaking the truth. The industry standard for spine is 26" divided into deflection equals bow weight AT 28 INCHES. For every inch past 28" your spine weakens 5# so at 30" your shafts are 10# weaker than you think they are.
Let me explain the formula a little better. The formula of 26 divided into deflection equals bow weight. so a deflection of .520 is for a 50# bow at 28". conversely 26" divided into 50# will equal a deflection of .520. Its a simple math formula, nothing magical about it.
An easy to understand this is take one of your full length shafts and grab it so your hands are 26" apart, now flex the shaft and remember how it feels, then move your hands apart until your just holding it by the ends and flex it again. It feels much weaker now.
Bob

[Art B]

Thany you Bob................the ol' boy might just believe you   !

That 26" number really confuses the issue for most folks so when I'm talking about static spine values  I try to leave it out of most conversations. Confused me for the longest time also!-ART B