Bow tuning trouble (PSE recurve)

[mossy cup]

Hi all, this is my first post here and I am looking forward to learning more and hopefully heading into the field (finally) for some hunting next fall.
First, I have a problem with my PSE Coyote.
Now I understand this is not the most accepted bow around, but I am trying to understand the problem before I am forced to upgrade to something different (which I would like to do for Christmas    .)

The bow specs as follows:
Right handed, 60" AMO, 55# @ 28", brace @ 6 3/4", 15 str. b50 flemish, NAP Centerest flipper, DAS SRF sight aperture.

Me: 28" draw length, finger tab (split finger), anchor index finger @ corner of mouth.

Arrows:
When I first bought this bow I was "issued" Easton 2413's at 29 1/4" nock to cut...125 field points...4" right hand, straight feathers.  I never played with the nocks.

I have since bent or lost most of these over the last three years so I had some 2314's cut the same size, stripped off the vanes and slapped on 5" RH helical feathers.  Nocks filed out to only have slight tension, no clunk into the throat any more.
 
Now the problem.
I can land my shots well within 9" at 30 yds but can't shake the fishtailing.  I feel this is limiting my accuracy and distance improvement.

In tuning, the best I can get is bare shafts will always hit 8-9" (level) left of fletched, I have moved the rest well to the left, and well to the right, as much as severely right (against the riser).  I have tried going from 125 to 140 gr. field points and no change.

Paper shows strong right (level) tears with either weight field point, fletched tear @ 1.25", bare @ 2"+.

I feel that the shafts I'm shooting are correct according to the charts, but what is going on here?  As it may already be known with this bow, it slaps the heck out of my forearm.  Could extreme forearm slap be part of the problem?

So, besides helping me diagnose the problem...what recurve should I look for next?

[O.L. Adcock]

Mossy Cup, "I feel that the shafts I'm shooting are correct according to the charts, but what is going on here?"

First mistake was following the charts. It's well known they aren't correct. You are WAY over spined, 2020's or 2117's are closer to what you need. Once you get the correct arrows, learn a to use a tuning method that sepearates form errors from tuning errors. The link below might help...O.L.

 http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

[mossy cup]

I was not aware how misleading the Easton charts are.  Thank you for the heads up.
I did some research based on your recommendations and found that some arrow charts suggest using a 10-12# increase on recurve draw weight using modern longbow shaft listings.  Your recommendations fall right in there.
Is this a reliable method to always base shaft selections on for a recurve?

Since I have the ability to make rest adjusments am I safe to try a couple different shafts cut to my draw length plus riser clearance (29.25") or should I get them long and cut them down and adjust accordingly?

[O.L. Adcock]

Mossy Cup, "Since I have the ability to make rest adjusments"

That really makes things a lot easier. Unless you are wealthy, just get a dozen and do what you got to do to tune them. Personally I'd leave them a bit long whith the point weight you want to shoot then use rest adjustments and or length to dial them in. Lots of options there, just go slow making one change at a time.....O.L.

[Bird Dog]

The Coyote has a very low recommended brace height of 6.5 inches and it will smack your arm. You can twist it up to 7 inches and get some relief. I'd set the rest to center shot and make right or left adjustments  very slowly. The Coyote I have has 0 tiller and it took me awhile to find a good nock point.

[mossy cup]

Thanks a ton!  I owe you guys.