Tuning or release problem?

[freefeet]

I had a first attempt at bareshaft tuning yesterday.

All the bare shafts flew with the nock left and point right all the way to the target (about 15 yards) getting more sideways as they went.  This resulted in snapping the first of the bareshafts on the second attempt as it hit the target at about a 30 degree angle.  I quit shooting the bareshafts at this point till i could ask some advice here as i don't want to snap any more shafts if i can avoid it.

The bareshafts were about 6 inches right of the fletched ones at 15 yards so i presume they were underspined.

My question is, does the underspined shafting make the bareshafts go sideways or is this a release problem?  I never have this problem with a fletched shaft.

I must admit it was quite a shock to see the arrows behave like that, didn't expect it.

As always, thanks for any help.

   

[McDave]

That's why we do it.  You got a definite indication of weak shaft.  You would get a much more ambiguous indication with a fletched shaft, since it straightens out quickly.  You're lucky to get a nock left, which is generally a true indication of an underspined shaft.  A nock right can indicate an overspined shaft, or several other things.

So you can go for a lighter point, shorten the shaft, or get a higher spined shaft.

Hopefully, in the future, you'll be able to guess close enough in your initial selection of an arrow that your bare shafts won't be so out of tune that they fly sideways and snap.

It's a great feeling when the shafts are tuned for your bow and begin to fly bullet straight for you.

[freefeet]

Thanks!  Just glad to know that's supposed to happen and it wasn't something with my shooting.  

It was my fist time choosing shafts and i had thought i'd estimated it quite well using the charts.  I shoot a 35# X200 at 30.5" draw and was using 51-53# spined shafts with 125gr field points.  I suppose the problem lies in that i really have no idea what that bow pulls at 30.5.Reckon my next investment is a bow scale.    

I also had an 8 strand D97 flemish on it, so don't suppose that helped either.    :D

The target was one of those with layers of rubber vertically stacked with ends facing and they do really stop an arrow quite rapidly.  I'll try using something more forgiving to shoot at when i try again.

I've got some 100gr tips so i'll give those a try.  And i've still got a bit of shaft that i can chop as well.  I'll let ya know how i get on.

All the best

   :D

[Old York]

Er, we don't know if you're right or left handed.  :confused:

[freefeet]

I was shooting right handed.

[Old York]

I'd say get a bow scale & measure the actual weight at your draw length, then you  know  what it is.

Given that, I crunched some numbers and came up with 52# needed spine weight for your arrows; that's right where yours are at now.

Try building out your strike plate with layers of masking tape & see what the cause/effect is....and also note that plucking the loose can make your arrows veer right, well it does for me anyways.

[freefeet]

Update...

I shortened my arrows by one inch, the shaft is now as long as my drawer length with the back of the point at the front of the riser, so don't want to go any shorter.  I also changed the field tips from 125gr to 100gr.

Bareshafts are still a little to the right, though not anything like the angle they were.

I only had two bareshafts left and when after i'd shot them a couple of times the nocks shattered on impact.  One side of the nock came off on one arrow and both sides of the nock came off the other arrow.  This happened when they hit the target at a nock left angle.  Is this usual?  I've never had this happen on a fletched shaft, and the fletched shafts of the set have been shot dozens of times while the bareshafts have only been shot a few times.

So my thinking is that this leaves me with two options.  Build my rest out until it tunes, or buy some higher spined shafts.

I think i'd like to stick with the rest as it is so i'll order some 60-65# spine shafts and start again with full length shafts and 125gr tips and see how it goes.

Question, does my reasoning seem correct on this?  And any thoughts on the nocks shattering would be very welcome as it has totally confused me as to why they would.

Thanks for any help.

Stan

[R H Clark]

I've never had nocks to shatter.Is there any chance they are old and brittle.I would replace all my nocks.You don't want one to shatter on release and cause a dry fire.

If you can safely lower your brace height it will help you shoot a slightly weaker shaft.You might also try another set of string silencers to slow it down some.

[freefeet]

Originally posted by R H Clark:
I've never had nocks to shatter.Is there any chance they are old and brittle.I would replace all my nocks.You don't want one to shatter on release and cause a dry fire.

If you can safely lower your brace height it will help you shoot a slightly weaker shaft.You might also try another set of string silencers to slow it down some.

Nocks are only a few weeks old and i've had no problems with the fletched ones, only the bareshafts.  They didn't break on the string, they broke on impact with the target, it sounded like the shaft had cracked but when i went to look the shafts were ok and the nocks were what had cracked.

I thought lowering the brace height, longer power stroke, put more force into the shaft needing a stiffer spine?

[R H Clark]

Your reasoning is sound but changing the flex point as the arrow starts paradox seems to affect a spine change that overcomes the powerstroke.It won't fix a way too weak arrow but will help with fine tuning if you have got close to correct with other changes.You still need to stay within the recommended safe limits though.