bare shafting??

[yekrut]

What does it mean when my bareshafting, goes right on each shot????? It hits near the bullseye though, but goes in at a right angle, if its nocking point issuses , how can I correct it so it flys straight?? Help!   :rolleyes:

[Greg Owen]

If I read this right and you shoot right handed it is an indication of a weak arrow.  Try lowering the point weight and see if it helps.  If that helps, then you can shorten the arrow 1/4 inch and see how the original tip weight shoots.  How far are you shooting from?

[yekrut]

I am shooting from like 12 to 15 yrds, I shoot left handed! tried 20yrds to. it doese not make a diffrence how far , from what I am seeing!!

[TomMcDonald]

Just get your bare shafts grouping with your fletched arrows and you're on your way.

[Greg Owen]

So left handed would mean increase your point weight a bit and see if it gets better. How far to the right are the bareshafts hitting?  I think at 20 yards you would want them to hit an inch or 2 to the left. Ignore the angle it goes in the target. What matters is where it hits in relation to the fletched shafts. You are shooting fletched and bareshafts?

[Greg Owen]

Try the information on this link. Its great stuff!

 http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

[yekrut]

Yea I am shooting fleched and bareshafts!! I'll keep trying, but they just want to go right on me every time!!

[TomMcDonald]

Add some weight then.

[Tilzbow]

yekrut,

If you're shooting the bareshafts at 20 yards or more on they're hitting the bullseye with your fletched shafts you're good to go. The angle the bareshaft hits the target at isn't relevant. If you read the attachment Greg posted on the link it will explain this in detail.

[JSG]

Help with the same issue??  I seem to have this same question when bare shafting.  I have read all the literature that says do not worry about the angle of the arrow.  My question I would like some help on is: Number one: If the bare shaft arrow is going at the target at an angle but grouping, How can that be good arrow flight?  I would think that the correction by the fletching would slow your arrow speed.  The second is: for a newbe at 20 or 30 yards it is pretty tough to know for sure if they are grouping left or right of the fletch arrow.  this has always bothered me and I try to get my bare shafts to enter at the same angle as my fletch arrows.  Am I over doing it?  As the first guy I talk to about a recurve said:"it is and adventure"  I would like any comments and explanation of these issues.

[Steve B.]

JSG,

1:  It's not good arrow flight.  Ideally, you would want your bareshafts to fly true.  You will find that tuning your bow, and tuning your form, will change this.  So the fletching does slow your arrow but not as much as an arrow flying sideways.  Plus an arrow flying sideways does not penetrate as well.

2:  "angle" and "grouping" are two different things.  Forget the angle.  If your groups are so random that you cannot consistently find the center then I would recommend you forget about bareshafting until you become a better shot.  So go back to the basics of shooting and get to where your shooting is consistent and then move on to finding the perfect arrow.  

I can tell you that my adventure would have been far less vast had I just stuck to the basics that everyone was telling me in the beginning and had more patience.  Instead, I would break from the discipline thinking there was an easier route, that some new bow, arrow, or technique would be the "key" to success.  They are not.  The key is actually in your head and your heart.

[O.L. Adcock]

Good answer Steve.

JSG, in a perfect world, they would fly
"straight"...But there are 400 reason why they may not and only 200 of them are related to tuning issues. Therefore if you try to correct them odds are you will not be successful.

Put it this way, perfectly tuned arrows shot off a shooting machine with a mechanical release will not fly straight for long due to aerodynamic reasons. That does not mean they won't group well. It's a matter of degree and distance. Your arrows could be coming out totally sidways but at 3' are going to group well.

The center of an 18" group is the same size as the center of a 2" group so you group size makes no difference. If your bare and fletched shafts are mixing to the point you can't see a difference, your work is done. If you shoot 100 fletched arrows and 100 bare and 60 of those are left of the fletched and the other 40 right, they are stiff...Look at the averages of a bunch, not a few. Good or bad form makes your groups larger or smaller both bare and fletched, nothing in your form will make fletched shafts group here and bare shafts over yonder some place. That's why it works for identifying tuning problems. Of course you can skip the bare shafts and us wide fletched broadheads if you'd like, it'll tell you the same thing....O.L.

[JSG]

I appreciate the info guys.  It helps me to understand a little better.  I just hope there really insn't 400 reasons.  

I have been shooting about a year and was sooting a 55# widow and when I shot bare shaft they flew and entered the target just like fletched.  Then I dropped to a 50# bow(both widows) and the arrows kept going nock left and I am a right hand shooter.  They grouped fine but nock left.  So I spent a lot of time trying to get the  bare shaft arrows to align with the others.  But what you guys are saying just leave it alone.

By the way I did start to get better bare shaft flight by going to a b50 string vs a fast flight on the 50 # bow.  I had a b50 on the 55# bow.

Thanks again, Jeff

[Phillyman]

How wide a braodhead, any examples? Is a Zwickey No mercy wide enough?