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Author Topic: Making A Back Stop  (Read 861 times)

Offline Empirepool

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Making A Back Stop
« on: April 03, 2009, 05:05:00 PM »
I would like to hear about some good ideas for making a backstop.  I live in town and would like to make a back stop that will not get moldy (carpet) and won’t be a huge eyesore to my neighbors (straw bale).  I have been told that a thick rubber mat (like a old truck box liner) or old conveyer belt (used by concrete companies or logging companies) would work well by framing it out with 2x4s.   Does anyone have experience with how thick the rubber mat should be? Does the rubber need to be backed with particle board?  Or if any one has other ideas, I am all ears.  

I would appreciate any advice.

Offline wv lungbuster

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2009, 05:26:00 PM »
I have used a mining type belt line about a half inch thick you can shoot right at it and your arrow will bounce off with field tips. If you do use a belt type look for splices they can make a weak spot
>>>>PICK-N-STICK--->

Offline reddogge

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2009, 06:41:00 PM »
Tractor Supply Co. has heavy black floor mats but I've never tried them.  They look like they would stop an arrow though.
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Offline Glenn Hickey Jr.

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2009, 08:39:00 PM »
I use the Tractor Suppy mats for my indoor range.  They are made for horse stalls.  I have it bolted to a piece of 1/2 plywood and stops everything I have shot into it.
It's heavy to move but works great and very durable.
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Offline bosteldr

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2009, 11:44:00 AM »
I have used truck mud flaps I found along the road while jogging.  Worked great for backstop on straw bails.  Lasted for yrs.
Dave B

Offline Bird Dog

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2009, 12:59:00 PM »
I made mine from an old hot tub cover.

Offline jcar315

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2009, 04:12:00 PM »
Glenn, I have seen those stall mats too. Do you shoot directly into them or put something in front on them? Will an arrow bend / break if shot directly into these? Thanks John
Proud Dad to two awesome Kids and a very passionate pig hunter.

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Offline waiting4fall

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2009, 07:46:00 PM »
This is what I did, but have cosmetized it since I made this video. Works awesome, will never wear out. Absolutely no problems with arrow wear either. I've devoted 3 broadheads to this target for practice. Hope this helps.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQV_lVzjLx0&feature=channel_page

Offline Glenn Hickey Jr.

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2009, 07:53:00 PM »
I cut one stall mat in half and bolted it to half (4'X4') sheet of 1/2 inch plywood. It is all I use behind a block target and yes I have missed and hit the backstop.  I have never shot through it although the arrow will stick in it but will not penetrate the mat. I am thinking of replacing my straw backstop with a mat hanging on a frame but have not done it yet.  I shoot GT Carbons and have never damaged an arrow.  I shoot into the side with the textured ridges.
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Offline LPM

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2009, 09:48:00 PM »
Don't give up on straw bales yet.  Consider this.

Build a tasteful, strudy frame to stack the bales inside with the edge of the bales facing you.  Put a simple roof on top as well to prevent water soaking the bales.  

Make sure the frame keeps the bales off the ground as well.  I use skids on the bottom. Use paint or stain to make the backstop match your home colors or out buildings.  

The rubber conveyor belting is excelent for stopping arrows and should be hung behind the bales from the top of the frame.

Leave space along the top so you can insert two small jack screws on top of a 2"x10" to compress the bales. once compressed the 2"x10" can be held in position by  2"x4" pieces screwed to the inside of the main frame.

Staw bales framed like this will last for many years. straw bales add a touch of "Olde Tyme" Tradition to shooting a bow.  Arrows are easy to pull and you can make the backstop as wide or as tall as you need for added saftey if neighbors are an isssue.  Just overlap the conveyor belting to increase width.  

One thing however,  Broad heads will tend to get hung up in straw after the arrow spins into it.  Get foam for broadhead shooting.
LPM

Offline Mackinaw Scout

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2009, 09:31:00 AM »
LPM, Can you post or send a picture of yours?

Offline jcar315

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2009, 09:57:00 AM »
Bird Dog, I saw a hot tub cover sitting out for trash and I was ready to loop back around for it to make a back stop but the wife put a fast HALT to my plan! I was thinking of your idea but she said no way to more "junky targets" in the yard.
Proud Dad to two awesome Kids and a very passionate pig hunter.

Right handed but left eye dominant.

Proud to be a Native TEXAN!!!!!

"TGMM  Family of the Bow"

Offline Bird Dog

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2009, 12:40:00 PM »
Too bad. It works great. You can cut it to size and frame it. Looks nice.

Offline Bent Rig

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2009, 07:35:00 PM »
Go to your local Tractor Supply and purchase a cow mat , it is 1" thick and 4'x6' of heavy duty rubber , just hang it behind any type of target that you have -cost is $36 -can't beat it ! Stopped an shot from a 70lb compound @ 20yds -half the arrow penetrated - so it will stop any recurve or selfbow with no problem .
Paul

Offline BOWBENDERPA

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2009, 08:06:00 PM »
I grew up in a confined neighborhood.  One of the guys living behind us shot a recurve and seemed to solve this problem.  He built a small tool shed type building on 4" x 4" posts elevated off the ground about 10", probably to keep mice and snow out.  Overall, I would guess (only a guess) it's dimensions were 24" deep by 50" wide by about 70" high.  Inside were placed three large straw bales. He used T11, shingled the roof and painted it the same color of his house to blend in with the neighborhood.  To add to the effectiveness, it was placed parallel to the open length of the adjoining backyards since they were seldom occupied unless grass was being cut.  The split doors had additional plywood facing on the inside, swung out and were propped open to make an even bigger "gull wing type" backstop.  Imagine it cost a bit, but I recall he used it many years with no problems. Wish I had a photo of it, but he moved several years ago and evidently took it with him.

Offline LPM

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Re: Making A Back Stop
« Reply #15 on: April 21, 2009, 06:42:00 PM »
Mackinaw scout,

I will see if I can get a picture up for you.  My backstop is constructed from old utility pole
cross arms.  They will last a long time but I would use more conventional lumber if I wanted it to look nicer.  My roof is a simple tin affair, Again no real need to worry about looks.  

I don't have to worry so much about how it may look to neighbors because of my location.  In the past  I had built backstops more like I described in my previous post.  Those got left behind when we moved.  

Anyhow I'll try to get a picture up.
LPM

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