New bow and bareshaft questions.

[Spurs]

Ok, I got my new bw recurve today.  I do not have my shafts yet.  The bow is 49# @28".  I have changed my shafts to 3555 instead of the 5575's as directed by you guys advice last week.   My question is when I start bareshafting my carbons do I need to have the wraps installed or does it matter?

Also I have simmons 160 grain heads that might go 165 with bleeders.  Do you guys think that I will need to order some brass inserts?  I have been reading for several days, and have learned alot, but I want to get it right.  I am just a few weeks in to the trad game.  I started shooting split finger from a longbow. I was playing with some wood arrows today out of my widow, and thought I would try 3 under.  I had to literally stop shooting at 15yds because I was hitting knocks and shafts.  My groups tightened amazingly.

Ok, so I like the apache style of shooting, but I noticed that when I backed up to 20yds that it seemed my arrow was diving to the ground.  I took bow to the shop and raised the nock 9/16 above center.  I then placed a nock below the arrow nock so now I have a nock above, and below.  I was still shooting low, but not as bad, and the arrow didn't seem to be taking a dive.  Am I on the right track or totally confused?  I know that I may not be accomplishing anything without the 3555's, but had to get out and shoot the new bow.  

All info will be appreciated.  I am new at this, and don't know much about it so I will listen and apply.  Thanks, Tom

[Cable Guy]

Here is a link to help you in your unlimited pursuit of knowledge.
This is also why I fish alone.

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=search;search_forum=6

[xtrema312]

I don't know widows so I am not sure on the riser cut on those bows, but I think they are cut to or a little past center.  It should take a stiffer arrow than some bows, but should also shoot a range of arrows.  165 plus an aluminum insert should give you plenty of up front weight, and I don't think you will be so stiff with that shaft that you would need more point weight.  Start long and only cut a little at a time.  Some lighter point weights to tune with at a longer length will help you check and find tune as you get shorter without over cutting.  I find it helps me know if I am getting close so I can judge how much to cut at a time.

Some say wraps don't do much and others say they do.  Some even say to add electrical tape to make the back of the arrow the same weight as the arrow with feathers and wraps on.  Wraps and feathers do add weight to the back of the arrow and that does stiffen the arrow.

Until I tune the bow and arrow it is hard for me to tell how low it will shoot 3 under.  If I have too high a nock point I shoot lower, but I still shot low 3 under.  Partly because I shoot split most of the time so my brain wants to hold lower and I just have a hard time getting that arrow up on the target.  Anchor point changes can help with this.  Try to find a little lower anchor point.

[Spurs]

Thanks Todd, I will just wrap one up and see what happens.  How will I know if I am going to need inserts?  I shot quite a bit more today.  My shoulders are killing me.  The arrows that I am shooting shoot fine, but I believe that there is room for improvement.  I was shooting 30 inch cedar shafts with 175's.  When I shoot bad I don't know if it is the bow or me so I need to get the right arrows going, and eliminate the equipment issues, and then focus on form issues.  Thanks again.  Tom