Bare Shaft Planning

[rvrbottomarcher]

I followed Adocks method of bareshaft planning and I was surprised at what I found.
I shoot a bear super kodiak #55 @28"
my draw is 27.5 The bow is cut to center but I have the plate shimmed out to almost and 1/8  I purchased some beaman mfx 500's
I am using 50grain inserts with 125 grain points.
I thought that I would have to cut the arrows down to around 28.5 to  29" but after shooting them in the basement I think I am going to leave them full length (31.25) The baresafts are hitting a little low and just barely to the weak side.  My form is not perfect every time but for the majority this is what I have found.
According to stu miller calculator I should have to cut these arrows down to get them to match my bow better.  
I guess what I am afraid of is that they are going to be to weak.  I just have a hard time cutting them down because they seem to be flying and shooting great . . . .
Any opinions???

[Big Bird]

cutting them down will stiffen them not weaken them.if you cut them only a little at a time.but if your happy with them shoot them.

[rvrbottomarcher]

I know that cutting them will stiffen them, I don't want to cut them becasue they seem to be ok but I am afraid that they are going to be to weak the way they are.  But I guess if they were to weak that it would show up while I was bareshafting right?

[Old York]

We do not know where your bare shafts are landing with respect to your fletched arrows; you only state that your bare shafts are "...hitting a little low and just barely to the weak side."

Also, it helps to know the distance you are testing at, I mention this because you're shooting in the basement.

I have found what seemed "good results" at 10, 15 yards turned out not so good at 20 & 25 yards.
Too close = not enough distance for fletched arrow/bare shaft discrepancies to appear.

I also recommend to test at farther distances and do so a number of different times, this will confirm your test results. Dang hard to put the carbon back on the shaft once cut...

As I understand it, the fletched arrows tend to go where pointed, thus this is one's reference point to which they tune the bare shafts. Emphasis on "where pointed"; sometimes not the same as where we think they're aimed   :eek:  )

Good luck with your testing, it is a thrill to see a bare shaft travel 20, 25 yards and stick dead-on, straight into the target    

[rvrbottomarcher]

When I said the bareshafts were hitting a little low and a little to the weak side I meant in correlation to my fletched shafts.  The baresafts are hitting where I want them to.  I am shooting 13 to 14 yards.

[Big Bird]

If your happy with them fletch them up and shoot them.if you can you should bare shaft them at 20 to 25 yards.13 to 14 yards is not a true test. a lot can change out to 25 yards.

[xtrema312]

Bare shaft farther out and don't cut them for a while.  Shoot a bare shaft along with your other arrows.  Give it some time.  If everything is good don't worry about it.  If you find later that your form improves or something changes and your arrows fly too weak then cut them down.  Maybe something in your release of bow grip is making it work.  That could change.

[bshunter]

take what xtrema312 said as the gospel! or you will end up with 7 dozen arrows lying around that are a tad too stiff like me

[ishoot4thrills]

I would leave them as is. It's much easier to fix a problem with a weak arrow than it is to fix a problem with a stiff arrow. With a weak arrow you can add material to the side of your strike plate and generally get it to fly right that way. With an arrow that is too stiff, it's much more difficult to make it right. You can always add more weight to the front of a stiff arrow to get it right, but if it's way too stiff you may not be able to get enough weight up front to make it work. Of course I'm referring to shooting off the shelf.