Need tips switching from recurve to longbow

[johnnyc]

My equipment:
I've been shooting traditional for a little over a year, mostly shooting between a 45lb 58 inch bear grizzly and a 50lb 60 inch Kodiak Hunter recurves.  I always wanted to try a longbow and came across a Bear Montana Longbow/ 64 inch 50lb that does not use the fast flight string.
  Not sure of he weight of my arrows, but they are carbons/ feathers and 125 grain practice tips that were matched by an archery shop when I started.  These were matched for my 45lb grizzly.
Questions:
  I started off with the longbow doing short shots 10-12 yards all kinds of angles and from elevations and sitting down since I bowhunt and really liked the accuracy... until I get back around 15 yards.  Then it seems my arrow really arcs and drops like a rock.  I've read where longbows are supposed to shoot a flatter trajectory? but I'm not getting that between a 45lb grizzly and a 50 lb Montana longbow.
  So I'd like some tips on what I could be doing wrong? What changes should I be making in going form recurve to longbow, such as maybe changing anchor etc?  I'm not needing to shoot big yardage either, 25 yards tops.
  I'd like to give the longbow a shot since bow season is almost over and maybe concentrate on the longbow for 3 or 4 months and see where I'm at and make a decision on which I'd rather hunt with next year.  I've done some really nice shooting with the longbow since changing over at very short ranges to see enough potential to dedicate some time to it, but after I shoot my longbow and then pick up the recurve, it almost seems like it makes my recurve shooting that much better.  Thanks in advance.

[Stinger]

I'm not sure what "really arcs and drops like a rock" means.  If they are just hitting low compared to the recurve, the first thought that comes to my mind is that the nock point on the longbow may be off, so I would try moving it down a little.    Second thought is the arrows may not be spined well for that bow, especially true if you see them hitting left or right from where they hit with the other bows.  Have you tried bare shaft testing?  Another thought, is that because of the difference in the grip type between the low wrist on the longbow and the relatively medium - high grip on the Hunter that you are not coming to the same full draw with the longbow and therefore not getting the full power out of the bow.

[johnnyc]

Yes, its shooting low.  I'm not having any problems of shooting to the right or left.  I do think I may be anchoring different with the longbow.  I'ts like its low and barely getting to the target. I've printed out some pics of Howard Hill and Byron Ferguson and am going to try to anchor differently.

[Earthdog]

Put your curve down,an leave it there.
Pick up your longbow an shoot,,don't belive it will all come togeather over night,because it probably won't.
Just stick with it an allow your self time to get in the groove.
I'm still learning my bows an I've been shooting them a long time,,it's like a good wine "yuck" it's suppoused to get better with time.

[jhansen]

Another thing worth considering is that the Montana is a straight limbed longbow.  It's probably going to be slower than your recurves even if it is 5# heavier in draw weight.  Slower speed means more drop over a given distance.  It will take a R/D longbow to get back to recurve speeds.  Your brain is trained to the recurves.  It will take a little time to learn a new trajectory.

John

[Bowtie]

Stinger and jhansen provide great advice...  lower nock set, bare shaft test, straight-limb longbow is slower.  My recurve and longbow are similar draw weights, but the recurve is a little faster than my longbow. I have to shoot a lower nock set with my longbow and bare shaft testing really helps me tune my bows.

[Jason_MO]

Do a search for OL Adcock tuning.  This will give you all the information you will ever need for properly tuning your bow...

It's possible everyone is correct about lowering your nock point.. but I would start out by reading the info provided by OL..  I mention this because it is possible your nock set is already too low giving a false indication.

Jason

[Jason_MO]

Do a search for OL Adcock tuning.  This will give you all the information you will ever need for properly tuning your bow...

It's possible everyone is correct about lowering your nock point.. but I would start out by reading the info provided by OL..  I mention this because it is possible your nock set is already too low giving a false indication.

Jason

[Kurt Miller]

This addiction (trad archery) sure is fun.  To shed a little light on the trajectory ? I just ran down to basement to run a test.  I have 50# Montana longbow I just shot all day at TBG central 3D shoot and then again way too much when got home.  Also have  50# 58' Bear Grizzly. Both have flemish twist strings from 3 rivers and fur silencers. Despite being tired I shot two tight 3 shot groups with same arrow at 20 yds on deer vital side of a bag target.  Although I shoot instinctive I basically came up with a quick gap shoot "sight picture" to ensure holding same for both bows.  Although I just guessed where to Gap on first try, i picked a good spot since Montana centered all 3 in heart.  Grizzly, although a touch right, all hit top of lungs on target about 4-5" higher.  Those arrows were bareshafted and tuned great for Montana and a little weak for Grizzly at same wt. Key numbers: 20 yard shots with a heftly 690 grains.  200 gr tip with 72 gr brass insert, 3 5" feathers, 29" draw.  With your lighter arrows i suspect much tighter vertical difference.  Montana definitely  a little slower, but for me feels like a lighter draw wt, quieter, and a joy to shoot (it put meat in the freezer this year)            .  Good luck.

[johnnyc]

Thanks for all the good info!

[LimbLover]

I thought the Montana was R/D??

I experienced success early with a longbow but it isn't always a cakewalk!

It takes time to get your hand placement and alignment committed to memory. I hit my arm guard a lot at first. Honestly, my most noticeable improvements came from selling the recurve and committing to the longbow. I haven't looked back.

I find the longbow to be more rewarding but you do have to fight it from time to time. For instance, I find it harder to shoot well after a few days of not touching my bow. It feels like a wild stallion in my hands lol. I never had that problem with a recurve. One little error in technique can cause you to have a really really bad day if you can't figure it out.

Its a labor of love. Shoot a few arrows every other day and just work on your hand placement and form and you should be fine.

[EzArcher]

my bear montana longbow is fast flight compatible and has slight reflex deflex i bought mine earlier this year so maybe they have changed it over the years.
i would do as others have said and stick with one or the other

[vikingbear]

At fiteen yards there should see no diffence in  the trajectory between the two bows. The longbow will be slightly slower but you shouldn't notice any difference until you get out to 25 yards or further. The problem you are having probably relates to one of two things; the way you are gripping the bows or the way the longbow is tuned. If you are gripping the longbow differently this could effect the amount of arrow you are drawing thus effecting speed.The longbow ,srraight limbed should probably have a fistmele of 6 1/2 inches or less(distance between string and middle of riser)This also effects speed of bow.  if this doen't work talk to an expert.

[eric-thor]

well now you have enough opinions and experiences to completely ruen your life lol. most r making some reasonable points . i think your bow is a deasent starter bow but its not going to perform like your shorter more efficent limbs of the curv. id make sure your arrows are close to 10 gpp. but iv shot many bows in my non competitave days and the had differentt cast's "tradgectory's" id say its easier to go from l.b to curv.but im a longbow shoot guy. i shoot a reflex/deflex bow thats very efficient just as fast as most modern curvs. fact is a Dlimb bow lobs an arrow it drops it just takes time to learn your cast at different distance .

[FerretWYO]

the best advice you could get is to PRACTICE with that you are going to shoot.

My experience with the Bear Grizzly goes back forty years, when it was found to be the fastest of the Bear recurves. A friend of mine that shots the Montana has his nock set at 3/16" above level and he shoots it one over two under with the Schulz  release,(holds his pinky down with his thumb).  The straightr grip of the Montana can shorten your draw over the the recurves you have.  Some people can draw the straighter grips as far as the recurve grips and then when the release is made they may be shorter than what they think.  If you have the Hill shorts dvds and are good with the pause button, you can see that occasionally even with Hill there is some arrow out in front of the bow right before the arrow takes off. You maybe will want to go to a lighter more balanced shaft out of the longbow. Nothing wrong with the good old cedar cut to your draw length and not over spined with a 125 grain point on it, unless of course you are trying to kill the really big stuff with that 50 pounder. Montanas like cedars a touch on the light side if they are cut to match the shooters draw length, while the Grizzly can tolerate a stiffer spined arrow.

[Terry Green]

Don't know if its been said yet or not...but make sure you 'yeild' to the grip.

Trying to 'force' a familiar grip on a different bow could cause a lower impact.

The 1st think I do when shooting a new bow is draw it a few times to get the feel of the grip, and how my hand should yield to it so that the bow is stable on the shot.