Generally shooting over the target.

[finq]

I struggled with , which I believe, was target panic for some while , but I got rid of it by really concentrating on my back tension and always taking a calm breath after I reached the anchor point.
My problem was, that I never really drew the bow all the way back and released the arrow too early. Not even with that bad accuracy, acutally.

However, I think that somehow still affects my shooting.

Lets say this is the target I'm shooting, usually at about 20meters , but ive got the same problem with shorter distances as well.
My hits look like this most of the time:

 

Now, eventhough the grouping isnt that great, its a improvement and I think I'm on a good way with my form and shot consistency.

My problem is, that I aim and while I stand at full draw, looking at the target, I already know my arrow is going to hit to high.
But I just cant lower my arm, I usually shoot anyways and miss or let go and draw again.

It drives me insane.
If I was controlling a robot shooting my bow, I think I could correctly adjust the bow 9 out of 10 times up to 30 yards.
I think I know exactly how much I have to lower my bow, but I just cant move my arm down. Its like my body is refusing to do so.

Any advice?

[Northwest_Bowhunter]

What style of draw are you using?  What method of aiming are you using?

Bringing your arm down that far could introduce a lot of tension into your body.  Better by far if you start off your draw with your bow lower.

Just curious, is there any chance you are over bowed at all?

[McDave]

That's good that you can't move your arm, because you shouldn't be lowering your bow arm anyway.  Try keeping your bow arm where it is and bending at the waist instead.

[finq]

I draw with one finger over and two under the arrow and shoot with a tab, no glove, because I noticed that I'm much more accurate that way.

I'm going to try holding my bow lower. Thats a good point acutally, I didnt think it would make a difference if I start lower since the anchor point stays the same anyway...

I usually start aiming once I'm at full draw, I dont judge distance before that much.

I dont think I'm overbowed, I shoot that 50# for about 2 years now after I started with a borrowed 45# longbow about 30 months ago.
No problems with holding the bow at full draw for 30 seconds and keeping back tension.
I feel however , after 60minutes or so of just shooting 6 arrows, getting them, shooting again, that my back is getting tired and my accuracy going down.

Would you call that too much?
Ive got no problems to go 3hours on the parcours, if theres a little walk after every target.
     

That's good that you can't move your arm, because you shouldn't be lowering your bow arm anyway. Try keeping your bow arm where it is and bending at the waist instead.  

Great, Thats another thing I would've never come up with on my own. ;-)
I'll go right on the practice field as soon as the sun gets up again over here, hehe.

//edit:
I aim like this:
I'm right handed, so I close my left eye and look over the arrow, but focus on the spot I want to hit on the target.
Hard to discribe this, first I make sure that my arrow has the right direction. Than I start judging distance / highering or lowering the bow.

[moebow]

fing,  This sounds like another form of TP.  Freezing on or off target.  Masters of the Bare Bow 4 DVD and Jay Kidwell's book
"Instinctive Archery Insights" is where to look for information and fix suggestions.

[Don Stokes]

I use the push/pull method of drawing the bow, starting with the arrow pointed toward the ground in front of the target, bringing it up as the draw progresses. I'm on target at the same time I reach full draw. That way, you never are aimed above the target.

[Northwest_Bowhunter]

finq, If  you can shoot for 60 minutes before your back gets tired (and it's good its your back and not arms) then you are not overbowed at all.

[finq]

Thanks, I'll definately try out moving my whole upper body instead of trying to force my arm down tommorrow.
 

I use the push/pull method of drawing the bow, starting with the arrow pointed toward the ground in front of the target, bringing it up as the draw progresses. I'm on target at the same time I reach full draw. That way, you never are aimed above the target.

Yeah, I tried that but I usually aim for quite a long time (about 5-10sek at full draw) and my bow tends to rise up or I release way to early and shoot too low.
 

fing, This sounds like another form of TP. Freezing on or off target. Masters of the Bare Bow 4 DVD and Jay Kidwell's book
"Instinctive Archery Insights" is where to look for information and fix suggestions.

I've looked for those before , but I couldnt find them in Germany.
Maybe I check amazon.com , I think they ship to europe.

[Don Stokes]

Finq, that's a long time to hold. You might do better concentrating on getting on target during the draw and releasing after only a second or so, rather than waiting to get to full draw to aim the arrow. If I hold too long, it messes me up.

[Easykeeper]

finq - I don't really have your answer since I fight the same problem.  I have a thread a bit down the page that has a lot of good advice on it that would apply to you too.  When I shoot split finger, which I prefer since that is how I learned, my target would look like the one you posted.  When I try to be more conscious in my aim in an effort to bring my impact point down, I get inconsistent.  Very frustrating since I can shoot consistently decent groups, but way too high.

My answer (for now anyway) is to shoot three fingers under instead of split.  It naturally brings my impact point down, although I am still a bit high.  Give it a try.  Don't change your anchor or anything else, just how you hold the string.  You will probably have to raise your nock point about 1/8" - 1/4" to get a proper tune and your bow might be a little louder, both seem to be normal when shooting with a three under release.  The plus side of three under, for me anyway, is that I get a cleaner release, no dragging my index finger off the nock when my release gets sloppy.  This gives me a little better arrow flight and my impact point is much closer to where I look.  I would rather shoot split, but then again why fight it???

[Jock Whisky]

Finq have a look at this thread by Jay Kidwell. Try the exercises he recommends. Find a way to acquire his book (revised edition). Best explanation of target panic I've seen in 50 years

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=006119

JW

[Jock Whisky]

oops... forgot. I have the exact same problem and Jay's info worked for me.

JW

[calgarychef]

Have you tried anchoring with your middle finger instead?  That will raise the back of the arrow a bit and make you shoot a tad lower.  Then when you have a 30yard shot switch back to the top finger and you'll be surprised how nicely you can hit at 30. also make sure you aren't lifting your head and watching the arrow when you release when you release.

[cbCrow]

When he first started shooting my son had the same problem you describe. At 10-15 yds. he was good but at 20 and beyond his arrows would always go way high. It took awhile as I was having problems helping him find the problem but a friend of mine stopped over one Saturday to shoot and within 5 minutes found out the cause. When Jer went to shoot at under 20 he came to anchor held for a bit then let fly usually with good results, but out farther he held a lot longer 10-15 seconds before release, Ralph told him to disregard aiming the arrow, as we could see him making little adjustments, to concentrate on the target and shoot like he was in close. It took a little while but an hour later he was hitting out to 25 yds. consistently. Be positive and quit telling yourself that they will be high. Concentrate fully where you want the arrow to hit, practice good form, see the shot in your head before you shoot it, and trust the computer between your ears!