If you only have 125gr tips, and are trying to bare shaft, your making thing a little hard on yourself. What your describing nock left, point of impact is to the right of where you’re aiming, shaft is to weak.
If your matching a set of new arrows for the first time to a bow, you need to have the right equipment and follow a few fundamental rules.
First, get a copy of stew miller’s Dynamic Spine Calculator; it will get you in the ball park.
Second, make sure you have a nice assortment of field tips ranging from 100gr to 250gr if possible.
Third, you need to know how your riser is cut + or – from center of the bow. (Ask you bowyer)
The further past center your shelf is cut (-) the stiffer the shaft you will need.
The further away from center your shelf is cut (+) the weaker the shaft you will need.
You must understand the archer’s paradox. (see YouTube)
The more you cut a shaft, the stiffer it gets and the more weight you need to achieve paradox.
The longer the shaft, the weaker it gets, and the less weight you need to achieve paradox.
The more force that is put on the end of a particular shaft, the less weight you need up front to achieve paradox.
The less force that is put on the end of the same shaft the more weight you will need up front to achieve paradox.
If your right handed, nock left, shaft point of impact is to the right of where you’re aiming, shaft to weak.
If your right handed, nock right, shaft point of impact is to the left of where you’re aiming, shaft to stiff.
Now, let’s suppose you have a bow with a draw weight of 55# @ 28, and you have a draw of 30”, actual draw weight would be around 60# of draw weight. And let’s suppose that Stew Millers Dynamic Spine Calculator calls for a .340 spined shaft at 31.250 with a 175gr tip. If it was me, I would start with a full length bare shaft, at 32” and cut 2 more shafts ½ “ apart, and start with a 100gr tip @ 15 yards, moving up 25gr at a time until one of those shaft shot straight, and then move back to 25 yards. If it is showing weak at full length with a 100gr tip, well then you know you need a stiffer shaft, or you have to shorten the shaft, and you only have 1 ½ to play with a 30” draw. Use the rules above, and move to a .300 or a .400 if needed. Set your nock at 5/8” for split finger and ¾ for 3 under. Watch your shaft, you’ll know you got it when she straightens out. And get rid of that 100gr insert for now.
If your shelf is cut past center you’re probably going to need .340. If it’s cut before center, you may need .400. You got to have a goal in mind, either your aiming for a particular tip weight, for a particular game animal, or your aiming for a particular shaft length. But the first objective is to find where your at, then you can start adjusting. The more you shorten your shaft, the more weight you will need. The longer the shaft the less weight you will need.
I hope this isn’t to much information, if so I apologize.
Topic: can bad form cause this (Read 1386 times)
