Clicker release

[oldrubline]

I am thinking about trying a clicker this winter as I revisit my form and make modifications. Each winter I re-read Mr Kidwell's fantastic book, re-watch MBB 1-4, and (new this year) read Joel Turner's book.  I have been using the back of the arrow point to trigger my shot.  It works very well BUT, as my form improves, I end up having a longer draw, thus, need longer (and new) arrows!  In other words, with my method, they have to be cut the exact length and an increase in draw means having to make a longer arrow. So...a clicker could solve that problem and I could adjust it and not the arrow.  One question I have about my release comes to mind as I consider 'non-anticipatory " triggers.  I worry that I will train my mind to immediately release the arrow when the signal is heard and that this could cause a flinch or abrupt, less fluid, release.  Contrast this to the type of release I hear the likes of Rod or Mark TImney (many others) speak of where you are not using a clicker but are pulling steadily with back tension until the shot goes off. In the later case, you simply stop holding and relax the fingers.  That sounds more smooth and less likely to cause issues.  Any concerns others have had or experienced with the more sudden release you get with a clicker?

Dan

[McDave]

I think I understand what you're talking about.  For a long time, I just got rid of the arrow as quickly as possible on release.  This resulted in a jerky release that often threw the arrow off course.  Now I try to finesse the release a little more.  Rather than trying to instantaneously relax my fingers, I let them relax at their own rhythm. This still results in an explosive release, because when my fingers relax enough, the string still tears out of them, but it's more of a surprise when that happens that way than when I try to relax my fingers instantly.  I don't see why you couldn't do the same thing with a clicker.  When it clicks, initiate the process of relaxing your fingers rather than just dumping the string.

[oldrubline]

Good point McDave!  I guess there is no reason to instantly release after the trigger is reached.  I'll try that...

Dan

[Fritz]

For me, there is no conscious thought involved when the clicker goes off. Defeats the whole idea of why I shoot a clicker. I focus on follow through after the release (touching the top of my draw shoulder). If I'm doing that consistently, I have no release issues.

[SteelyDan]

Just my opinion, but I, for one, would never hold on to the string after the clicker goes off. The whole point of the clicker is to let you know that you have reached your correct draw length and that it is time to "trigger" the release. Holding on would invite all sorts of gremlins (collapsing, plucking, bow arm movement) through that door.

Your focus will be on the pulling. The release will be natural and dynamic if you are pulling when the clicker goes off.

You do not say that you suffer TP, lucky you!
SD

[McDave]

What happened to me, and possibly what Oldrubline is concerned about, is that my release became jerky and my accuracy decreased because of it.  I was using a non-anticipatory psychotrigger, similar to a clicker, and thought I was releasing subconsciously when the trigger went off.  I agree that generally it is a good thing to release automatically when the trigger goes off, without thinking about it, and that is what I was trying to do.  However, what I think happened was that my release ceased being subconscious without my realizing it, and I began releasing the arrow by consciously opening my fingers when the trigger went off.  This would cause minor deflections in the arrow path; it was frustrating to me to see the arrow going off in a slightly different direction than I was pointing, even when my alignment and back tension were okay.

Then I read a post by Arne where he recommended allowing your fingers to relax naturally, both to insure that you weren't consciously popping your fingers open, and also as a means of achieving a surprise release.  I was able to learn to do this, and my annoying deflections disappeared.  The amount of actual time required to allow your fingers to relax naturally isn't much different from the time required to pop them open, so it isn't like you're going to be holding the arrow back at full draw noticeably longer after the trigger goes off than you already do.

If you truly have a subconscious release and it's working well for you, then fine; keep doing it.  But if you're really just popping your fingers open at the trigger, then it could be a cause of inaccuracy.

[oldrubline]

I do have TP and the psychotrigger has allowed me to get a handle on it.  I wonder if maybe focusing on the CONSCIOUS relaxing of the fingers in a blind bale setting over-and-over might be a good idea.  That way, it would become a learned and automatic way in which the hand operates once triggered to do so during the subconscious use of a clicker.

Think I'll go to the garage and do some...

Dan

[Fritz]

This is what works for me. I come to anchor and pause with good alignment and back tension. Once I'm lined up I focus on pushing the bow toward the target to activate the clicker and my draw hand follows through and touches the top of my rt shoulder.

[knobby]

I'm with Fritz on this one. In fact, I wouldn't know "what" to think about once the clicker goes off, because the arrow is already gone. My thoughts are focused on pulling through the shot, like suggested. Find the spot, then execute the pull.

[YosemiteSam]

No system is perfect.  But a clicker is a good one to use.  I'll sometimes hover around the spot just before the clicker goes off -- increasing tension but not enough to make any draw length increases to make the clicker go off.  It forces me to stop, reset, try again.

Oddly, when the clicker goes off early (draw back too far & before anchor, I've never let it go.  Sometimes, I'll let down just enough to reset the clicker and pick up my shot cycle where I left off.  More often, I'll let down completely and then reset.

[forestdweller]

Pulling steadily has never worked for me.

It works well when you have a very heavy mass metal riser and very long and heavy front and side stabilizers but I'm of the opinion that constantly pulling through the shot will adversely effect your accuracy vs locking out at full draw and holding steady for a second or two.

For me if I continue to pull through as you would if you had a clicker than I'm not 100% completely steady on target since the string is still being drawn back and I have not stabilized my string hand.