bow lenght

[John Malone]

Hello lady's and gents, I'm posting on this forum because this concern relearning proper shooting form  (I've read the stickys). But its a question dealing with bow size. I bought a Samick Polaris 62 inch 35# bow at a yard sale for 50 bucks. It was used long enough to lose 12 arrows then put in the closet, I couldn't pass up the deal as it also came with evry thing from case and draw glove to limb saver stringer. I have a 27.5 inch draw, if the draw weights are based on 28 inch draw I should be good with a 62 inch right? It shoots well, its not uncomfortable but I know nothing about these modern td target bows and don't want it to blow up in my face. When I was younger (before I meet a girl) I hunted with one piece recurves and long bows but that was 20+ years ago. I never stopped hunting just used fire arms. So I want to get back into trad bow hunting and thought this bow would be a good one to relearn some proper form and what not. Next year when the mortgage is paid off I will be upgrading of course. So should I proceed as planned or give it to my nephew?

[McDave]

Sounds like you're on the right track to me.  Entry level arrows to start with would be 1716 aluminum arrows, that come with a glued in point.  If you buy the complete arrow, be sure to get ones that have feathers and not plastic vanes.  Recurves are subject to limb twisting, so if there is anyone you know who could check this out for you, or a nearby archery shop, it would be a good idea to have the bow looked over.  If there is an archery class you could attend, it would help get you off on the right foot.

Probably before too long, you will want to move up to another bow, maybe a 40-45#, but the Polaris would be good to hang onto for use by guests or relatives.  When you move up, you can inquire about carbon arrows, and we can advise you based on what bow you get, but for now, the 1716's should do fine.

[John Malone]

Thanks McDave, I found some gold tip cutdown 400s on the clearance rack for two dollars a piece. The bow is cut past center they shoot ok. Two days and I can keep them in a 6 inch circle at 20 yards. When I was 20 I could hit a rabbit in the eye at 20yrds lol. But I'm heading to town this weekend ill grab some Easton's like you mentioned.  Thanks again.

[McDave]

Shooting cutdown GT 400's with that bow would be sort of like hauling my Airstream trailer with a Volkswagen, but as long as you're having fun, that's the main thing that matters!

[John Malone]

Yes I agree, but for two bucks couldn't pass it up. Ill save them for my upgraded bow. But you know how it is when a new bow is staring at you you do what ever.

Whats the proper forum to talk about that. Not about to doubt ya but I thought cut past center would tolerate a heaver spine, I need to read up on that. Like I said ive got one year left on the mortgage so that's my priority, after that I can spend some money.

[Draven]

To make a GT.400 to work with your current set-up, you will need to be in the ballpark of 200gr fieldpoint and the total arrow will be in the 14+ GPP (around 500gr total weight arrow) - you might throw it faster than the bow.
If you want to learn more without trying and being overwhelmed by charts of different arrow suppliers try Stu's Dynamic spine calculator or the one from 3Rivers archery as beginning point.
Good luck in your new adventure

[John Malone]

Thanks Draven, the GT chart says I need 500. They are 29 inch with a 150 grain point so their borderline for this bow. Ill get to town this weekend and get something a lil more appropriate. Choices are limited around her unless you order online or drive 2-3 hours. Maybe wally world carrys some 1716 like McDave recommended.

[McDave]

I don't think you're going to be using a 35# Polaris for hunting, so I don't think you want a heavy .500 GT with a 150 grain point unless you just particularly like lobbing your arrows into the target.  1716's should give you pretty good performance at a reasonable price.  If you wanted better performance, you could get .600 GT Ultralights and shoot them with 100 grain points, but that seems kind of like overkill for that bow.

[John Malone]

I think the eastons you recommended will work fine for what I need. Just need to get the feel for shooting a bow back, ill keep the Polaris for killing hay bails in the back yard. Shouldn't take long as I bow hunted until my early 20s. I only hunt with TRADITIONAL Bows so Ive been checking out some of the bowyers that are advertised and talked about on this sight. That will cost me so don't want to spend much on a backyard paper puncher. Stiil have one girl in colledge.

[John Malone]

Couldn't find any 1716s in town, however I did find some victory archery decimators. 500 spine 31.5 inches, 7.2 gpi carbon on sale at D.S.G for 29.99 a six pack, fletched and all just had to glue in the inserts. Left em full length. I have this thing about a sale? But read some good stuff about them here on some older post, so its the right arrow and a decent one for paper punching.

 Now I need some help with draw hand and arm form that was always my weak point. Bow arm and back no problem. If you guys have any links for that id appreciate it.

[McDave]

Here's Arne's video on the rotational draw, which is the best video I've seen on drawing the traditional bow:    

[John Malone]

Excellent, added it to my favorites. Very similar to the way I was taught as a kid. Funny thing is those bad habits that come naturally never leave us, proper teaching goes away without trying.
 Thanks McDave.

[McDave]

Originally posted by John Malone:
Excellent, added it to my favorites. Very similar to the way I was taught as a kid. Funny thing is those bad habits that come naturally never leave us, proper teaching goes away without trying.
 Thanks McDave.

Very true. Rick Welch taught me everything he knew about shooting in the first 2 day lesson I had from him. Everything he has taught me in the next 3 lessons were either things I forgot from the first lesson or never learned right in the first place.