switching from 3under to split

[Ari_Bonn]

I started shooting 2 years ago roughly and I have always shot 3 under.  Recently I have started to experiment with split and I have noticed that there is a significant difference in the feel of the draw( smoother/lighter? from the limbs being more equally bent?) and my release is cleaner along with the bow being more quiet( again tiller thing?)

I think I want to switch to shooting split but I am not used to the lower arrow position in relation to my eye.

Is there any disadvantage ( back tension wise) simply anchoring my middle finger to the corner of mouth or higher so its more like shooting 3 under?

[YosemiteSam]

Everybody is different.  There's only one way to find out if it disadvantages you -- try it and see.  For me, the lower my draw arm is on my face, the easier I can maintain good back tension.  Anchoring with my index finger on my nose gives me small gaps but I get sloppy after 10-15 shots.  As a kid, I shot compounds mostly with a tab, split finger, with an olympic-style chin anchor.  Gaps were so big it seemed pointless & I used sights.  I love how it feels.  But I can't shoot that way without sights since gaps are measured in feet.  So it's a perpetual compromise.

[reddogge]

No, most split finger shooters I know including me anchor with the middle finger in corner of mouth or higher. You just learn to do it.

[Wolftrail]

I will only shoot 3 under using a glass recurve, my Wood bows are not tillered for that so I shoot them split. 3 under places to much stress on the bottom limb.

[MPaul]

I shoot split finger. Have played around with 3 under I don't think it matters much.its what you are comfortable with the key is a good anchor point I don't like the corner of mouth moves too much. I like something solid like the cheek bone. Multiple anchor points are preferred like maybe lower finger on corner of mouth and upper finger on cheek bone. Everyone's face is different find what worked for you.

The tiller discussion comes up quite often and IMO it just isn't that important--unless we're talking about a self bow or a VERY short glass laminated bow.

All bows have tiller.  It usually ranges from 1/4" positive to 1/8" negative.

Think of like this--maybe, to get an idea of the perfect tiller for the individual archer.

Imagine two doors on a wall; now, slam the doors shut.  If they slam shut at the same time, there is little noise or vibration.  Let one door slam at a different time than the other and you get noise and vibration.  The idea is to make adjustments so the doors (limbs) shut at the same time.  It's more about timing than actual tiller.

Raising and lowering your nocking point will change the timing; raising and lowering the shelf/rest will change the timing; heeling the grip will change the timing and putting more pressue in the web of your hand will change the timing.

There's too many variables to claim a bow is tillered for split or 3-under, etc.  Most times you can simply tune the bow and shoot it without issue.