Form Critique Video

[Firstlight]

I've been learning to shoot with the feather to nose activating the shot (aka-Joel Turner)

I'm having some problemsgetting occasional flyers to the right of intended target?
   video  
I'm wondering if I'm collapsing at full draw or dropping my bow arm, causing arrows to go right?

Any other causes of arrows going right?

Generally speaking, where would plucking the string cause the arrow to go?

I'm getting some kind of form, alignment issue where I'll be shooting pretty ok for a bit, then I get a bunch of arrows going 6 to 12 inches to the right and I can't figure out why...

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[Wolftrail]

Arrows going right tells me lightly spined arrows. Arrows going left to heavy.
Try anchoring and holding the bow higher to your face., and dont torque the string.  Are your bows center shot.?

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MyArchery
 http://myarchery.byethost18.com

[moebow]

This has nothing to do with arrow spine. We are too quick to blame spine issues for all left or right arrow problems when in reality spine issues are only prevalent in about 5% of the left right issues.

Firstlight, you say this is occasional and you "get a bunch" later in your shooting session."

In a frame by frame of your video, This must be earlier in your shooting session and you aren't getting the right hitting arrows yet??  I see a bit of a pluck with your string hand in each shot.  See how it moves out from your face before you move it back to your ear?

I SUSPECT (but really don't see) that you MAY be moving the bow hand to the right as you fatigue during a shooting session.  This is fairly common that your bow hand starts to "honor" the string hand movement as you tire.

An Arne editorial:  I am not a fan of the feather to the nose, because the only way to move the feather back to nose contact is to pull with the arm.  See the feather move back?  Now watch the string arm elbow, see it move back directly away from the target??  The only way to do that is to use arm muscle.  IF!!! you are expanding, the elbow will move back away from the camera (person viewing this video) and the hand would NOT move on the face.  BUT that difference does NOT allow the string hand or feather to move back.  OK, enough of the "editorial."

Back to suggestions.  Your release shows me that you are using mostly all arm to draw and finish the shot.  Evidence is the sting hand flipping out, elbow moving straight back away from the target, and the string hand/feather moving back.  this can cause different issues for different shooters.  Your shot largely depends on timing of all the parts of the shot.  Day to day or even during a shooting session that timing depends on fatigue level & mental state (relaxed, agitated, etc).

How to fix??  This is tougher but... Work on your release to stop the hand from flipping out.  You currently have a two part follow through.  Your hand pops out THEN you consciously move it back.  If you release with a relaxed hand, the hand should move straight back to a position in the air behind your ear in ONE straight, smooth movement.  That movement happens, you don't do it.

Arne

[Firstlight]

Hi Arne, I appreciate your comments.  

I know for a fact the problem is me, not spine or tuning.

I was seeing the "odd" movement of my hand as well in the video, wasn't sure it was a pluck or something else, but what you say is pretty much spot on with what I "thinking" the problem is.

Yes, I start out shooting pretty well, then with rushing the shot, lack of concentration, fatique, etc. something happens to cause the arrows to go right.  

If I really concentrate when this occurs, I can usually correct the problem, but knowing the cause will be helpful.

I'll work on the "fix".  I thought I was more into my back muscles but I suspect you are correct in your observations.  I do have some videos where my hand doesn't have the pluck and hand / arm go straight back.  The whole shot actually "feels" different and smoother.

Psyco trigger:  Honestly, for a couple of years I've fought not to shoot this way but at 3D events, I short draw, snap shoot and have the TP.

I can sometimes snap shoot very well but then all of a sudden, I can take a nose dive in my accuracy, TP takes over.

It has come down to the the psycho trigger or a clicker to aid in getting a solid shot sequence, getting to anchor and releasing a well place arrow, or letting down.  I chose the psych trigger...

My shooting initially declined with this method of shooting but has improved to where I'm shooting pretty much equal to before, the biggest difference has been how I shoot in pressure situations.  So far psycho trigger has allowed me to shoot well in pressure situations.

The big test is the next two Sundays  as I'm attending annual 3D Turkey shoots.

I'm really focusing on form and not so much score as I've seen that if I do what I'm supposed to do when releasing the arrow, good scores will naturally follow.

That, and doing a lot of wand shooting, working on alignment.

Again, thanks Arene and anyone else who has constructive comments.

[Jock Whisky]

If I find my arrows going to the right it's usually back tension. When I get that right I shoot a lot better. What seems to work for me is trying to rotate my elbow around behind my back without my anchor moving back. This seems to activate the muscles in my back and almost feels like coming over the peak with a compound. Try it without your bow. You should feel the back muscles come into play.

Works for me. Hope it helps you

[Wolftrail]

Originally posted by moebow:
This has nothing to do with arrow spine. We are too quick to blame spine issues for all left or right arrow problems when in reality spine issues are only prevalent in about 5% of the left right issues.


Arne

A lot of shops are quick to sell you carbon arrows that are not tailored to a custom built bow, either wood or Glass bow. Been there done that.

[kenneth butler]

Arne, what do you think of pulling the feather to the nose as a draw check but not a trigger. Then expanding,pulling the elbow around?Thanks.>>>----> Ken

[McDave]

I have used the feather to nose as an anchor for my dead release for some years and like it very much. It doesn't work very well as a draw check unless you have some way to check the front end too, like touching your forefinger with the back of the broad head.  I have a particular arrow cut to length such that I can feel a slightly oversized target point touch my forefinger when I reach full draw.  I practice with this arrow several times a week to keep myself honest. I don't use it all the time because it is kind of hard on targets when you pull it out and not ideal for tuning purposes.

[moebow]

Kenneth,  In the system I teach, using the feather as a draw check would be OK.  Feather will stop touching the nose at the same time you reach full draw then doesn't move again until the shot goes.

IF you are reaching solid bone on bone, you really don't need that but it is OK the way you stated it.

It is the movement of the arrow nock/feather and hand AFTER reaching full draw that I would object to.  CLEARLY that works for some folks and that is fine.  I'm just relating my statements to the rotational draw and bone on bone alignment that I teach.

Arne

[kenneth butler]

Thanks Arne thats is what I meant. I have been trying it lately. Good point McDave. After all the arrow does have two ends. Well maybe I can cut the draw length variance in 1/2 any way. My last couple batches of arrows have ended up tuned with a 1/2" to an inch over hang,so I can't use your idea. I put a piece of masking tape at 29 1/2 and asked my wife to watch several ends but not say anything until I finished. She said I was hitting the mark consistently but did creep up on one. I had shot for a while and was getting tired when I thought to do that. At least that is what I am blaming it on. >>>----> Ken