Micro-Flite Arrows.......couple of questions

[jcar315]

I just picked up some #8 Micro-flite arrows from a fellow TG member. Nice arrows that I would like to get cleaned up and use this season. My questions are this:

1. Heated the Razorheads to remove them and they would not budge! Do I need to cut the shafts to get these off? These are about a inch or so too long for me so I do have some extra arrow length to play with. If I do cut them what will I find? if they are indeed hollow how would I remount heads on them?

Just looking for any micro-flite help you could provide. Nice arrows and I would like to use them.

Thanks

[TRAP]

Old epoxies and such can be very stubborn.  

Heating slowly is the ticket.  Did you try putting them in boiling water for an extended period of time.  I've never had to do this but I read the tip on another thread.  Might try it with one to see if it works.  

There is an insert that is glued into the hollow shaft. It is tapered on the opposite end to receive a BH or fieldpoint.  

You're going to need that insert so you might as well try to get them off before cutting them.

Trap

[Hud]

I has been awhile since I put some MF's together, but the insert is about the same length as ones for aluminum. You can cut the shaft with a fine hacksaw blade (24-32 tpi).
Be carefull, the glass will split, or produce splinters. Smooth the end & inside with fine sandpaper.

The inserts were probably glue in with epoxy. They are almost impossible to remove without damaging the shaft.

If you just want to change the heads, use heat. Heat is an enemy of glass, because it will burn. Wrap a cold wet towel around the shaft as close to the head as possible. Use a propane or butane torch; a little heat goes a long way, then see if you can remove the head with pliers. Dip the shaft in water to cool.

If you cut the shaft, you can still remove them the heads this way. Epoxy takes more heat to break loose.

Cutting the shaft. Warning, make sure the cut is square and the insert fits snug, when you put it into your shaft. Do not force. Forcing will split the shaft.

I have some that I am going to shorten this way. I have thought about adding a short wood dowel into the shaft (loosely fit), and epoxy the dowel and insert in the same process. Reason being, the inserts are short, the glass is thin and occasionally shooting into wood will break or split the glass. What I am suggesting is the equivalent of a footed glass arrow.

[PAPALAPIN]

Before you cut them, consider that you should keep about an inch of overhang to make sur eyou have broadhead clearance.  This insure that if you overdraw your broadhead will not hit the back of the bow.

BETTER TO HAVE TOO MUCH THAN TOO LITTLE

[Tom I.]

John...
#8's are pretty stiff and at 28" are spined for a 50-55 lb bows.  How long are they now?  Remember too, that center shot bows can handle stiffer spined arrows. I'd shoot them before cutting.  
Also...some epoxies will loosen in extreme cold...so put one in the freezer overnight and see if you can jerk or twist the insert out.
Tom I.

[jcar315]

Guys, you are the best!! I was able to get the Razorheads off. There are tapered "inserts" I guess is what I would call them that the Razors were attached to. Tom, I think I will take your advice and shoot them first before doing any cutting.  Thanks again!!!!!   John