The second of the two new bows from my uncle

[Ranger58]

Here's the second of the two bows I received from my Uncle recently.  This one appears to be a static recurve with no markings whatsoever.  The finish on the back and belly is starting to flake off; but, the bow is in extremely nice sound shape.  It is around 68" long, has a two piece handle that has been glued on to the bow, a nice leather wrapped handle with a plastic or bakelite rest glued on and extending below the wraps.  The wood of the bow appears to be a hardwood, either oak or hickory and the top layer of the handle is of the same wood.  The middle layer is of a more reddish hued wood.  It appears to have been a production bow in my opinion; but, no idea who may have been the producer.  Take a look and see what you think and if you have any ideas please let me know. I think this one is going to be a shooter for me!
 
 
 
 
 

[seboomook]

Looks like a Ben Pearson. I have a very similar one. The decal on the upper limb belly is half missing. Remaining portion reads
"Ben Pea" over "ULT PLA(or H)"
Of more help is a faint stamp on riser back just above grip "507"
Dont have any catalogs to narrow it down further.
Got it with a '50 static tip bear, so this may help dating the bow.

[Ranger58]

Thanks Brad!  Is your's shootable and do you shoot it at all?  You might want to check this site Archery Archives link:   http://www.archeryarchives.com/  
The guy has a lot of info on numerous different manufacturers and Pearson is included.

[Ranger58]

Anyone have an idea on what to apply for a new finish on this one?  Going to take off the old and redo; but, I don't have the foggiest idea of what I'm going to use yet.  Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance!

[oldbohntr]

If you want to shoot it, here's the best way I've found.  Remove the old flaking finish, and get some Watco Wood Rejuvenating Oil. Warm it and slather it on the bow. Let it soak in for a day, then repeat at 24 hour intervals for a couple more days.   Then brace the bow with a long string-maybe 4-6" brace height.  Let it sit a day.  Increase the brace a few more inches, and sit a day.  I apply more oil each day just to try to fill every single cell I can reach.  I do it again at 12", 15" ,20", and 24"(tillering stick).  I don't leave it braced overnight at 15, 20, and 24, just for a few minutes. If it makes it through 24", then just crank up and draw it all the way. Either it's gonna shoot, or you can stir paint with what's left of it!  Seriously, I did it on a lot of dried out old lemonwood and hickory bows, and only lost maybe one out of 20.   However, you want to be sure the glue joints appear sound, and I would fill any cracks with loctite 420 before starting.  

If you just want a wall hanger, apply watco danish oil, french polish, tru-oil, or whatever pleases you.

[Ranger58]

Tom, thanks for the quick response!  So where do you find the Watco products?  And after you've done the rejuvenating, do you then lastly apply another type of finish over the oil applications?  Thanks again!

[oldbohntr]

Just google rejuvenating oil. Lot's of woodworking sites seem to have it.  For the finish you can also buy Watco Danish Oil at most any Lowes or Home Depot. I don't put a surface finish-like varnish or polyurethane- over an oil finish.  You could, there's no reason to, so long as you are willing to apply more oil periodically.  French polish is another finish technique using common materials.  Just google for info on that.  

Be aware also, that even if your bow does shoot when you are done, the glue joints may not hold, so a glued-on handle, tip overlays, or backings may pop loose. You can't rehab the glue joints, so if it fails, just sand and reglue.

Suggestion: Be sure to have a good attitude about it....if the bow breaks, or two in a row do...it was still worth a try.  When one does shoot again, it's worth what you went through!  

Good luck!