Pattern for K4 Handle

[Hood]

Does anyone have a pattern for a K4 to replace the leather handle?

Thanks

[oldbohntr]

I never used a pattern, just find appropriately thin leather, skive the edges, soak it good, apply Barge cement to the grip and stretch it into place. Haven't done it in a long time, but I think it worked best to only glue about 75% of the leather on at first, let it set, and then it works better to stretch the final half inch or so.

Good luck.

[reddogge]

Try the Restoration 101 thread.  Bowdoc has a pattern for a '59 Kodiak which is a start.

[Hood]

Thanks!

[NancyVTAS]

Send me your mailing address,I have just removed one in one piece and will trace a pattern for you.   Dick

[Takedown]

Hello Hood,
Just remember, the "K" static tipped limb models had handles that varied a little, determined by the draw weight of the bow. So, cut your leather a bit large and check it closely!
Harry

[TRAP]

Make sure you check under those leather grips for names of old Rastafarian bowhunters too!!!!

   

Trap

[Hood]

Originally posted by Takedown:
the "K" static tipped limb models had handles that varied a little, determined by the draw weight of the bow

I never knew this, how did they vary?

Thanks for the info!

[Hood]

Hey Trap,

The only writing under it was the name "Munger". Do you think that means anything?    

There are a few numbers and letters, but nothing else.

[Takedown]

HI Hood,
Sorry to get back so late, I've been "off line" for a while.  The hand grip area on the static tips bows were built around the core lams of the bow which extend "through' the handle. Heavier weight bows had heaver limb lams. And hence the slight difference in handle thickness. I am sure they tried to keep them uniform but with less automation they relied on "the eyeball gauge".
I have a 50# K-4 and a 60# K-4 and the 60# is fatter in the handgrip area. Both bows have not been altered from the factory!
Harry

[Novaln1975]

To create my own pattern for my Grizzlys, I wraped the handle with masking tape the way I would like the leather grip to be, then, carefully, I cut the masking tape vertically at the front of the grip. I then peeled the masking tape grip off and applied it on a sheet of paper. ( you need to flatten it out a bit) I drew an extension at one end for the overlap and cut it out. I now had a close enough pattern to regrip my bows.

S