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Author Topic: Help  (Read 919 times)

Offline JBiorn

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Re: Help
« Reply #20 on: December 20, 2007, 04:15:00 PM »
Umm, It actually doesn't seem like you are understanding what we mean by "tuning". The arrow shafts have to match your bow. Tuning not only referres to nock-point and brace height, but to arrow spine weight and length as well.   I would certainly start by bare-shafting with different weights up front, just to see if thats not the biggest problem with your flight.

 And what is your actual draw length? What is the spine of the arrows you are shooting? How long are the arrows your shooting? Is your bow cut to center?
 There are a lot of variables involved here.

Offline d. ward

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Re: Help
« Reply #21 on: December 20, 2007, 05:26:00 PM »
I mean no disrespect to anyone please......No joke,Bjorn is right.Something is well out of tune with your equiment.The arrows are comeing out of your bow sideways (to soft or to stiff of spine).I saw a dude this fall stick a magnus broadhead into yes I said into the door of his suberban with a 55# Kodiak recurve bow.With a 600 grain cedar arrow (beleieve me it cost me 2 Buds to see that....) But it was worth it.I still can't stop laughing about that one.The maggie actuly penatrated the old burbs drivers door.I hunt with a 55# bow 550 grain arrow,with Bear razorhead and cedar shafts.I've blown thru elk (at 27 yards long shot for me)many many deer and several black bears as well.According to testing done some years back,by several well known bow manufactures.Which one may I say may have been Bob Lee of Wing Archery pretty sure it was.I can't remember what I did 10 minutes ago,much less something from 1965!!!!!! 55-57# recurve 9-10 grains per pound was by far the most efficint.1,000 grain arrow and 100 pound bow did not work any better and was actuly worse in some cases.Loss of energy and speed at some point.Food for thought.bd

Offline d. ward

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Re: Help
« Reply #22 on: December 20, 2007, 05:31:00 PM »
One quick note......I know somewhere in the tradgang links is a video of Doctor Jeff Springer shooting an arrow completely thru a very large black bear.With a 50 pound self bow and stone head.Out the other side and then some,check it out.bd

Offline Ollie

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Re: Help
« Reply #23 on: December 20, 2007, 06:23:00 PM »
I do not have alot of experience but before taking a chance at injury I would suggest a thin lite carbon arrow and load the front up to bring you up to 10 gr pr pound bow weight, and maybe a long head like a grizzly. It seems a high FOC arrow is what  Dr. Ashby has had good penetration with. I could be wrong but I wish you the best of luck.   ollie

Offline Deadbolt

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Re: Help
« Reply #24 on: December 20, 2007, 06:33:00 PM »
good luck in your search for the bow thats some serious weight LOL.

but on a side note i had a passthrough with my 40lb curve on my buck this year.

Offline laddy

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Re: Help
« Reply #25 on: December 20, 2007, 07:31:00 PM »
shtr Are you sure not completely overbowed.  As deadbolt points out a strong shot with a 40 pound bow has a lot more killing power than a weak shot out of a 60, even if you get it back.  I had a fellow at shoot ask me to check his form and arrow flight.  He said he had a thirty inch draw with thirty one inch arrows.  he had 19 inches and would not believe when i told him there a foot sticking out in front when he let go.

Offline stickandastring

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Re: Help
« Reply #26 on: December 20, 2007, 08:45:00 PM »
shtr,

my 60# limbs throw an arrow 205 fps. Chronoed right in Fedora's back yard. Im expecting 180's out of my 50# limbs. He build a bow for a girl that lives around here at 36#. She blew right thru her first deer.  

Just thinkin all that weight is overkill, esp when your already pullin 70. Your body will thank you someday.
Face your fears. Live your dreams.

Offline shtr

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Re: Help
« Reply #27 on: December 20, 2007, 09:21:00 PM »
Hey! thanks for piling on this topic people.
Truly is appreciated.

Here is the deal on what I didn't mention...

I have shot all arrows from the easton chart 5# above and below the weights of the bows that I have listed.
That's 6 shafts per bow and I started each shaft in a group of three and deducted 1" off the length of those arrows until I hit the front of the riser.
I also shoot 100 - 150 & 200 grain field points on all lengths.
I record all strikes and then finish the remaining shafts where my best strikes were seen and then match head weights to those shafts.

On some bows I am getting best flight with the actual arrow ending 2" ahead of the riser while some shoot best with the arrow ending at the front of the riser.

I flight tune all my bows and have tuned many bows for many people.
All of my bows which are set up for others are killers in thier hands , passthroughs and all....just not mine.

I am fully ready to believe it's flight....I just dont ever see it in the target butt , video's or have it witnessed when I am shooting.

I have been filmed on hunts in the past and have had over the shoulder camera angles so I can assure that on these real deal shots , the arrows were flying true.

Still.....It is a huge question.

As I said....one of my friends cant believe the lack of penetration I get and I set the bow up that he killed his first whitetail with.
He broke through the spine and exited the scapula with a 45# Bear Grizzly just last year.

His bow is tuned same as mine and many others.

I have found that the 2213 is giving me the best flight out of my 60# bow with a 29" arrow drawn to 27".

That's all I can add right now I am afraid.
You cant eat the horns!

Offline R H Clark

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Re: Help
« Reply #28 on: December 20, 2007, 11:00:00 PM »
Shtr,
I don't really understand what you have posted about your tuneing method.I'm sorry I may be a little slow.

If you want to see your problem shoot some shafts with no feathers or vanes at a target 25 yards away.My guess would be that the arrow will plane to the side and miss by feet.I can see no other explanation for your lack of penetration.

A well tuned bareshaft will hit with a fletched shaft at 25 yards.

I wish you the best of luck.
Randy

Offline JBiorn

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Re: Help
« Reply #29 on: December 20, 2007, 11:18:00 PM »
R H is absolutely right! And a 2213??? HolyMoly! try something a little closer to your spine weight.
 At 70# I would be thinking something more along the lines as a 2117 or smaller.

Offline Dirty Bill

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Re: Help
« Reply #30 on: December 20, 2007, 11:32:00 PM »
If your bow is tuned right,then all that leaves is target panic. I hesitate to explain it because you can get it from thinking about it. The points is,you could possibly be barely at half draw when shooting at game.   :campfire:

Offline shtr

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Re: Help
« Reply #31 on: December 23, 2007, 09:25:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by JBiorn:
R H is absolutely right! And a 2213??? HolyMoly! try something a little closer to your spine weight.
2213 @ 60# - @ 29"

 
Quote
At 70# I would be thinking something more along the lines as a 2117 or smaller. [/b]
Currently 2413 w/150 gr. head @ 29"

Tried 2115 and that was weak.

Bare shafted 15 - 20 & 25 yards....perfect tracking.
That being said...havnt shot a deer with the 70# set up yet.   ;)
You cant eat the horns!

Offline shtr

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Re: Help
« Reply #32 on: December 23, 2007, 09:28:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Dirty Bill:
If your bow is tuned right,then all that leaves is target panic. I hesitate to explain it because you can get it from thinking about it. The points is,you could possibly be barely at half draw when shooting at game.    :campfire:  
On film I am anchored solidly and past experience has shown that if anything I will overdraw slightly if panic situation.

Thanks everyone for your input.
If the answer had of been obvious I would have found it a long time ago.
I will be doing more testing this summer on cull & preserve hunts so hopefully , I will be able to bring this back up once more with the issue resolved.   :pray:
You cant eat the horns!

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