Sawing laminations, what saws?????

[warden415]

I know I have read alot of people using the bandsaw to saw out their laminations. I have a 14" Grizzly and although I like it , I don't trust it enough to saw that straight. I have been using the table saw to saw mine. The table saw works good but I am a nervous wreck using it as I have had a few close calls already!
Anyone have any tips for sawing lams or anyone else useing the table saw method?  
Steve

[BenBow]

Steve I posted this elsewhere but will copy here to be sure you get it.
Steve I had to make a new plate that the table saw blade goes through that just cleared the blade. Otherwise like you said you end up with close calls when the blade pulls your wood between it an the table."

[Tom Leemans]

The reason for resawing thin slats on a bandsaw is because it has a thin kerf and cuts down; it doesn't throw the wood if something catches. A properly tuned bandsaw with the right blade and fence set-up will do what you need. Either way, you should push the wood with a sacrificial push block.

Here's some helpful info for resawing your lams.
  resawing info

[Dirty Bill]

Steve are you still whining about the end of your finger?       That was 2 days ago.It should be healed up by now. I still think a band saw is the way to go.The kerf on a table saw eats up a lot of wood.  

[lt-m-grow]

He is another good article on resawing

 http://www.americanwoodworker.com/userdocs/articles/200008/main/index.html

[Tom Leemans]

lt-m-grow,
That article was great! Thanks for the link!

[lt-m-grow]

Tom-

I know.  It had me roped in when I saw the tree on the band saw table.

I ran across it because I am looking for a bandsaw for cutting lams, bows, and other stuff.

Warden -

the Grizzly gets fairly high marks.  And it seems to always win the biggest bang-for-the-buck category.  Likely you just need to study up on blade drift.  Here is something I grabbed from another article though the above article talks about it too

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Blade Drift

No matter how carefully set a band saw's guides are, the blade still tends to run out of square to the table. This is called drift or lead. When following a line and cutting freehand, you compensate for this without really thinking about it, but it's not so simple when ripping or re-sawing: the stock being cut must remain in line with the blade. A fence, set so it parallels the true path of the blade, ensures cuts remain true.

Here's how I line up a fence: On a plywood scrap about 4 inches wide and 24 inches long, strike a pencil line down the center parallel to a machine edge. Use the band saw to carefully cut halfway down the line. Stop the saw but don't move the scrap–not even a little. The plywood is probably not at a right angle to the table. Make a light pencil mark along the machine edge of the plywood. Then, clamp or adjust your fence parallel to the line, which is also parallel to the blade path. Each time you change blades, re-establish the line.

– Bill Thomas
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Enjoy!

[kennym]

Good stuff Bill!!

[Buemaker]

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=19

I think this description is quite helpful.  Bue--.

[Buemaker]

I forgot to mention that their Wood Slicer blade is a marvelous blade, cuts hard wood like butter.  Bue--.

[mmgrode]

Thanks for the links guys!  Very informative.  I was always curious how to get good resaw cuts and now I know. In fact, I'm just about to saw some lams on the table saw, but now I might give it a go on the bandsaw. Thanks! Matt

[warden415]

Well i decided to buy the Wood Slicer blade and give the bandsaw a shot. Should get more lams out of a piece due to less kerf loss and I already feel "safer"  than cuting on that devil table saw!  

[Holm-Made]

I have the Grizzly "ultimate 14 inch" bandsaw.  I'm thinking you have the same saw.  I put the fence on the left side of the blade.  Then I can hold the wood stock firmly to the fence with my left hand as I feed with my right.  My left hand is about 2" from the blade so I have to pay attention.

I set the fence 1/8" from the blade and cut the lam off the inside of the stock instead of the outside.  This way I don't have to keep moving the fence after each pass.

 I use cheap $11.00, 3/8" blades but they are sharp and it hums right through the laminations.  I can cut them very accrutely and quickly using this method.  

Good luck, Chad

[Sixby]

Chad thats exactly what  I do. In fact I cut some tonight at 1/16 in. I like t he 3/8 4 tooth per in blades. I buy about one a bow. I cut my lams up when I first put a brand new blade on. I also take a stone and lightly stone the backside of the blade. It helps it run true. Put the guides down about an inch above the work and make sure everything is tight and square and plumb. I run a real tight blade cutting lams.

[AkDan]

boy I have a lot to learn about my bandsaw...i have the 12" craftsmen mainly due to shipping.

Curious what yall do to tune these things...mine drifts side to site, but also wants to bent left to right at an / from top to bottom...

Can't for the life of me remember what blade I have on it....was considering resawing some osage slats to glue up for bows.....really afraid to do much with them till I get this thing cutting decent.