Reducing Weight

[Shadow Hunter]

I have an older Damon Howatt hunter recurve that is to heavy for me at my draw length. It's 60# at 28", my Draw length is 30", That puts me in the upper 60's for draw weight. I would like to reduce it to about 60# at 30" any suggestions?
Thanks

Shadow Hunter

[**DONOTDELETE**]

find a good bowyer and see how much to retiller it to 60#@30".

[owlbait]

Jim Belcher shows prices for refinishing and reducing weights on bows,  www.belcherbows.com.  Don't know much about him but ran across some info after the Kazoo expo.

[Shadow Hunter]

I've thought about that, I've made a few board bows and was wondering if a person could simply sand down the width of the limbs evenly and reduce the weight that way. I do have the needed equipment and a tillering tree as well. Any thought's from someone that has done this before, Thanks

Shadow Hunter

[Shadow Hunter]

Just wanted to get this back up to see if anyone else had done this and how. Thanks Guys

Shadow Hunter

[OconeeDan]

Shadow Hunter, You don't sand the sides.  You use a sanding block/sand paper and sand both back and belly of the limbs.  Sand the working part of the limb, from the fadeout to the last couple of inches.  You must sand both sides, and sand both limbs.  You want both limbs to be "balanced".  Measure the distance from string to the top of riser, then measure the distance from the string to the bottom of the riser.  If they are 1/4 inch difference, keep it that way.  Bottom limb should be a tad stronger, and will have less distance from bottom of riser to string.
You will be surprised how much sanding it will take.  Glass is tough.
I have only done a couple bows, so I am not an expurt, and this advice is worth what you paid for it.  But that is what you need to do to weaken the limbs.
Dan

[Holm-Made]

It looks like you want to take off 6 pounds of draw weight.  That's probably more than should be attempted.  I've sanded off 2-4 pounds on longbows I've made.  With a recurve you would have to be careful to take it down evenly so as not to cause limb twist.  Like Dan said this advice is worth what you paid for it.  Chad

[Bjorn]

I agree that 6 is a lot-unless you have done it before. And, just so none of us need to be contradicted as to method: Shadow-do your own homework and YOU decide if you are going to sand faces or edges! LOL!
You will need to know that for yourself anyway.
Good luck.If it were me--sell the bow and buy what you want!

[Shadow Hunter]

Thanks for the information guys. I have been thinking about this for a while. I've had the bow for quite a while and have shot it very little in that time due to the weight. It's a little rough around the edges and I paid very little for it when I bought it 15 years ago. As they say nothing ventured nothing gained, if it works great if it doesn't I'll look at it as a learning experience. Thanks again.

Shadow Hunter

[Ray]

Dennis I narrowed the limbs on a old Ben Pearson recurve.Like you I DID NOT PAY MUCH for the bow.I Took off 1/8in.from each edge.THE bow dropped from 45 to 42#.I USED a belt sander,and it still shoots well.If you were to narrow to much near the last 8-10inches you would have to worry about the tips twisting on you.

 PS.  I don't think I OWN a bow that I havn't taken a file to the handle area,so these things don't bother me,but if your worried about failure-don't attempt.

[SCATTERSHOT]

If you are planning to have someone do it for you, be aware that the cost is generally around $150.00, plus shipping both ways. For that you might be better off selling your bow, and buying another.

[Gerald Peterson]

I have a recurve that has been reworked by Jim Belcher.  There is no-one I trust more to rework a bow.  His work is exceptional.

[GWS]

I have reduced the weitht of one glass longbow from 65# to 53# with excellent results. A recurve a little trickier but it is not rocket science. You can put masking tape on the limbs and mark an identifiable portion of the limb to be removed from the edges, from the back and belly my eyes are not calibrated.  Remember when the bow came from the form those sweeping lines to the string nocks were not there the bowyer shaped them so. Remove equal and small proportions and check tiller and string alignment continously. Remember we live not for the kill and the glory but for the journey otherwise we wouldn't be playing with sticks.

George
(disclaimer-MHO has value only if it works)

[kojac]

I say go for it, in fact I'm going to rework an old shakespear I have for my 11yr old this week.

I also will be takeing a little off the edges and reworking the grip.

good luck and let us know how it turns out!!