Anvil Questions

[Butts]

I was looking thru a Grizzly Industries catalog and saw they carry anvils. Has anyone ever tried one of these? And if so how did you like it?

Thanks in advance.

[Jeremy]

That's generally referred to as an ASO - Anvil Shaped Object.  The cast iron anvils are generally useless for any real forging.  You can find cast iron anvils that have a tempered steel face and those work fine (that's what I have) but aren't as nice as a cast or forged steel anvil.

Here's a thread all about anvils  

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=110;t=000193

Definitely check out the Anvilfire site!!

[Lin Rhea]

I recommend Emerson Anvils from Riverside Machine Shop. They are made in Shreveport, La. I have one and I really like it. They make all sizes in the tradition pattern.

My opinion, if you buy a cast iron anvil, you will immediately start looking for a better anvil. But, we do what we got to do. Lin

[Jeremy]

Don't let preconceived notions of what constitutes an "anvil" limit you.  For the price of the cast iron anvil from Grizzly you can buy a large slab of 4140, 4340 or 8620.  a 4x4x12 block stood on end is going to be around 60# but react to a hammer blow more like a 120# anvil.  Buy 3" stock, cut it off at knuckle height, harden the face and you'll have an inexpensive anvil that'll react to a blow like a 300# anvil!

Check out the anvilfire site for ideas.  You don't need a large anvil face for knifemaking

[Wampus]

Here's a good descripion and picture on Tim Lively's website:

 http://64.176.180.203/homemadeanvils.htm

 http://64.176.180.203/tutorials.htm

[OconeeDan]

I can get a forklift fork, each one weighs at least 200 lbs but more likely heavier.  
If I just took the thick portion, stood it on end, cut and ground smooth, how would I harden it?  I assume heat with oxy ac. torch and quench it, but anybody care to specifically spell it out?
Cross section would be about 8"x 2.5"
Thanks, Dan

[Lin Rhea]

Dan,
     I would test it to see how hard it is first before trying to heating it up and quenching it. I  would think it already has been hardened and drawn back just to function as a fork, so it will flex and not take set. I dont know this for a fact. Just been thinking about it.
        Even if it had not beeen hardened, you can smooth the end and use it as it is and it will work harden over time and use. I have never done this before, but that's what I would try if I were to get one. It should make a great anvil. Lin

[OconeeDan]

Thanks, Lin.  Makes sense, never thought about the work hardening.  I may try it, the price is right. Dan

[mater]

There is a company in my home town that makes those forks. I have aquired some cut off pieces about a foot long. I have cut some of them on a metal cuttung bandsaw, to find that the are very hard in the center and softer on the out side. The inside is very hard, so should be able to make a good anvil if treated right,
 Ive heard it said that to quench an anvil It takes alot of water, not just a barrel full. Not sure if a fork would be to big.
    mater

[Bryan Bondurant]

Dan, You may find this of interest. Its a DVD on how Chuck Robinson makes his Post Anvils. He made Don Foggs anvil for him and many bladesmiths are using it. The DVD goes into detail on heat treating and quenching along with other relevant information.

 http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=13899


  Lin is right too, You cannot go wrong with Riverside Machine Shop. Anything you get from them will be top quality as they do not mess around with any junk over there.


 http://www.riversidemachine.net/item581823.ctlg

[OconeeDan]

Thanks!