opinions on anvil

[Mohillbilly]

Thinking of purchasing this, haven't seen it in person yet, but is supposedly 125#, no cracks, no apparent writing.

100.00

 

 

[Mohillbilly]

[Lin Rhea]

How many holes are in the top? Lin

[Mohillbilly]

Lin,
haven't seen it in person but doesn't seem to have any from the pics.  Do I need hardy holes?
Bret

[kuch]

Again,I'm not an expert but you wanted an opinion.Hard to tell much from those pics...check the face and the edge out...possible reshaping the face and edge up to welding onto edge are options.If it is cast forget it .125# is plenty big and 100$ is less than a dollar/pound.I paid $175 for a150# 7years ago that needed minor sanding to the face/horn/edge....and that was a decent deal.got to see it in person.my opinion.

[Mohillbilly]

How's best to tell if it is cast.  Up till now I have been working on a bucket anvil that I made out of some mild steel.
I appreciate all the help, I know i'm a relative newb and appreciate all the help.
Bret

[Mohillbilly]

also, resurfacing the face, hard?  costly? where to get that type of thing done?
Bret

[Mohillbilly]

 

two more pics, appears to have a hole below the horn and one on the supports/legs

[Lin Rhea]

This anvil has the classic Colonial shape. If it has one hardy hole and no pritchel, it would date before 1820 and thus be valued partially based on it's historic value. It's in rough shape for a user, but it might hold a special value to a history buff.

If it's Colonial, it should be wrought iron with a welded face. I recently found a really nice Hay Budden 128 lb anvil for $150. It was covered in several layers of paint. I cleaned it up and was real happy with my purchase. Anvils are tricky. It's best to do some homework and know if it's a good buy or not. Find the book "Anvils in America" and study up. It may be the library. Lin

[Lin Rhea]

I see the pictures now. I believe it to be 1820-1850 English pattern. Those holes in the ends of the waist are handling holes to move it around while welding the face plate on. I cant tell from the pictures, but typically those anvils were forge welded together from 6 or 7 pieces. On some you can easily see the welds and how they stuck it together. You have probably seen some with the tail or the horn broken off. They break at a weld. The book I mentioned shows pictures of the construction as well as examples of broken ones. Lin

[kuch]

i know it may be somewhat nerve racking..."is this any good or is it junk because i don't know and don't want to miss a good deal or get screwed"...i've been there .I asked a blacksmith friend who was knowledgeable to go with me to look at the anvil.books are great but time may be of the essence ...what do you want out of the anvil?nostalgia?collectability?solid working tool?bigger names like Haybudden and peter wright usually command more $ but don't necessarily help you turn out better pieces of work.got to see it in person...doesn't look cast to me ..those are usually from harbor freight /chinese...can see casting "seams".i resrfaced my face with hand grinder/flap disc and jitterbug.at the end of the day ,if you just want to forge ..it would be fine with some elbow grease.Can always upgrade later.

[Lin Rhea]

You need one good edge (slightly rounded is OK)and a somewhat flat face. If the face plate is still welded good, it will do fine for blades. Yes, you can upgrade. When you get time, look at the book and be prepared when the opportunity knocks.

Were glad to have you here and look forward to seeing some knives. Lin

[Steve Nuckels]

I'm no expert, but go look it over and see that the work surface is flat and try the rebound test!  If you have a good size ball bearing about the size of a pin ball hold the ball 12 inches above the surface drop it and if the ball bounces back into your hand you have a good one!  

I recently lucked into a good buy on a Peter Wright 110#, paid 100.00, and that ball bearing bounces back to my hand plus some!

Good luck!

Steve
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Potomac Forge
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IN GOD WE TRUST

[Doug Campbell]

Kinda hard to tell but it almost looks like it's broken or cut off about at the hardy hole... If the face is decent it wont bother the "pounding" surface. Looks kinda tough shape but I've cleaned up a few that were that way, welding damaged areas, (you need to know a little about it and use the right rod), or depending on how deep the dings are refaceing can be done with a right angle grinder if your careful.

Have fun!!

[Mohillbilly]

Thanks soooooo much guys, I'll get a look early next week and let ya know the skinny on the anvil.  You gave me lots to look for and think about.
My thanks,
Bret