Handles

[Roy Steele]

I only make a knife or2a year.First I like to fine out the different tpyes of pins you all use.
  Next what types of glues or apoxys in stead of pins.  

[OconeeDan]

I use brass rod from any hardware store or craft store.  1/8, 3/16, and 1/4" tubing.
I buy stainless rods and tubes that are annealed from Pop's Knives and Supplies.
Epoxy:  you just opened up a can of worms there, many different opinions on that.  They say Brownells AcraGlass is the best, but when I want to use the best, I use Smooth On.  If it'll hold a bow together, it'll hold a knife together.
Dan

[R H Clark]

I use the Accuraglass but I think it is more of a factor for hidden tangs without pins.The Accuraglass only shrinks 1/10 of 1% so you know it will still fill the space after it dries.It is better for something like Stag with pith.I like to remove all the pith and fill the whole thing with Accuraglass.

[Lin Rhea]

Roy,
      I agree with Dan and R H. I would encourage you to not just use epoxy, of any sort. It's my beief that in 99% of knives, you can use a mechanical bond along with the epoxy to hold the blade and handle together. A pin/pins, screwed on butt cap, etc. I'm not saying that epoxy itself wont hold up for many years. I think it will. But a maker can design the mechanical bond into the knife for added insurance. I know, I'm obsessing.     I'll admitt it. Lin

[kbaknife]

You're not obsessing, Lin.
The knife should be designed so that mechanical connection is what is depended upon to hold the knife together - pins, bolts, screws, etc.
Don't depend upon epoxy alone to hold the knife together, even though there are many that may do that for some time.
Epoxy may lend some piece of mind to the assembly, but in the long run, it's major use is to render the handle assembly environment-proof, keeping out water and other "unwanted" guests from invading the un-seen areas of the knife.

[OconeeDan]

I agree with all above.  Epoxy is mainly to keep blood out of the handle.
I also groove every pin and thong hole I use, as well as slightly rough it with 60 grit belt sander.  Put to bandsaw blade and spin it while putting light pressure to the blade.  I am talking metal cutting bandsaw, and use gloves.  It puts shallow grooves in the pins and gives more for the epoxy to grab, creating more mechanical bond than if you used slick pins.
Dan

[Lin Rhea]

Dan, thanks for the tip. I have been roughing them up, but I like your way better. Lin

[razorback]

When you guys put the pins in, do you peen them over on both sides to create the mechanical hold or is it friction and epoxy that holds them in place.

[R H Clark]

I would agree that pins are very important on full tangs and certinly you guys have more experience than me but am I correct that in something such as a hidden tang in a stag taper that the epoxy is the main ingredient.

I didn't use a pin on this knife because the stag was larger at the bottom so no way a solid piece of epoxy is going to pull out.I also notched the end of the tang fairly deep sort of like a broadhead.The butt plate had a large brass wood screw soldered to the bottom.

As stated above I use accuraglass which has nearly no shrinkage and is shock resistant with a proven long history of no deteriation as a bedding material.

Here is the picture as most of you have seen already.Should I have used a pin also?

 

[Lin Rhea]

R H,
     That is a great knife. I say that knowing it dont have a pin.   :D   While it would be technically better with a mechanical bond, how good does it have to be, right? Sometimes going to school for knife making turns us a little anal about things. Dont lose sleep over it. You should be proud of that knife. Besides you did take steps to make sure of the bond. Lin

[R H Clark]

Thanks Lin,that does make me feel better.I have a tendancy to rethink things I've already done.

[Lin Rhea]

This thread makes me wonder if we ought to start a thread that is about handle construction methods. You know, types of construction along with pictures and explanation of why each method was chosen for the shown knife. Not that I have so many pictures available, but I do have some. Maybe.........Lin

[razorback]

Lin, I can't begin to tell you how great tutorials would be for those of us just starting out in knife building. All I have at the moment is the internet and anything I can get at the library. I know more than many started with but not as good as combining it with pictures and explanaitions from guys who have done it for years.

[OconeeDan]

That is a good idea Lin.  You allready did one post on a hidden mortise, but there are many others.

Regarding the post on peening pins, I only peen pins that use solid antler, bone, micarta type handles.  And with bone or micarta, only lightly peen with very soft pins.  It doesn't take a lot of peening, you'll be surprised how little it takes.  With wood you better watch out, you are likely to get a split, and I usually don't peen anything I am worried about getting a split.  I allways groove the pins for a good bond with epoxy, no matter what.
Dan

[razorback]

Thanks Dan, I am working on my first handle, walnut, so that is great and timely advice. I only have hardware store epoxy for this one but will get the better stuff for future knives. I will be keeping this one so don't have to worry about anybody else getting a subpar knife. Will post pics when done.

[Roy Steele]

THANKS EVERYONE.Where can I get accuraglss.I've never used it.

[OconeeDan]

Brownells or MidwayUSA

[R H Clark]

Hey Roy
Sorry I misspelled it the first time it is acraglass.It is fairly expensive for just a couple knives a year.I buy the 28oz resin and 7oz hardner kit for $60 and it is just as cheap for the volume as anything.

[Roy Steele]

I also groove pins and but have used just epoxy on some knives.
   THANKS FOR THE INFO.

[Roy Steele]

THANKS