File Knives - 3 in Process

[Ragnarok Forge]

Here are some pictures of three file knives I am working on.  The first one is a heavy skinning knife based on an old style popular in the westward expansion in America.  The second knife is a fighting style pig hunting knife.  The third blade is a colonial style with a 10 inch blade, yet another pig hunting knife.  

I finished the initial grinds on the third knife just a bit ago and I am ready to start the normalizing process.  I have a couple questions.  Using a propane forge would it be better to heat the large blades inside of a steel pipe in the forge to obtain an even heat while normalizing and heating prior to the quench?  

I have oil and goop in my shop. I think water will be to fast for this high carbon material.  The main question here is would an edge quench or a full blade quench be a better idea for the hardening step? I figured the oil for a full quench and the goop for an edge quench.  If I do a full quench, I figured this might be a good time to try making a hamon.  Good idea or bad?
I have no real experience working at making hamon. I am a bit concerned about getting a bend in the long blades with full quench. Particularly with the little experience I have with clay coating blades.  

I am planning to make some wrought iron guards for the pig knives along with antler handles on all three.


I still need to square off back edges of the ricasso area on each knife to ensure a proper guard fit.

   
   
   
   

[Scott Roush]

nice!  i'm working on a file knife almost identical to that first one... although smaller.

and i just quenched my big nicholson farrier chopper similar to your sticker and had to do it three times.  the first two i used hrisoulas' 'fast' mixture... motor oil and tran oil thinned with diesel. didn't harden. the third i used a warm brine (9% table salt) and interrupting the quench after a 7 count and then placing it back in... and it hardened nicely... but with a little warping along the edge. but it corrected easily.  a lot of folk recommended a brine to me for quenching the files....

anyway... too many variables to learn from i guess. i was approaching it like it was 1095 (which many nicholson are)... but i don't believe i achieved a proper soak time. i also did a clay coating which i've never done before. no hamon! but i don't think i allowed the clay to dry long enough and it balooned off in the forge.  let me know how it goes!

[Ragnarok Forge]

Scott,

It sounds like I may need to go ahead and do a water quench / possibly brine quench then.   I have produced two hamon in smaller knives and you have to thoroughly dry the clay before quenching or it doesn't work.  I will mix up some brine and give it a try.  I will use the 7 count interupted quench that worked for you.  I was thinking that with the high carbon in the file it might be better to start with the brine and then convert to the oil for the finishing step of the quench.  That way the martensite formation at lower temperatures should not be extreme enough to cause cracking.  what do you think?

[Scott Roush]

the only problem is knowing what kind of steel! who made your files?  there is a pretty good thread on blade forums about this.  seems like a lot of people have success with oil.... i didn't.. but i'm still having problems getting even heats.  i know that adding the salt is supposed to help with warping/cracking due to the disruption of the vapor jacket adjacent to the steel providing a more even quench. the interrupted quench is also supposed to help.  Cashen said a 7 count for 1095.. or at least keep in until you vapor coming off the steel.. not exploding water drops.  

i've also been reading that the brine quench produces a better hamon...

oh yeah... i believe in that thread i mentioned there is some talk about going from water to oil.  let me know if you need me to dig a link up to that thread..

[Ragnarok Forge]

I read that thread, That is what got me thinking I would go that route to avoid cracking.

[R H Clark]

You need a little radius where the blade meets the tang to keep it from cracking during quench.You could also clay coat that tang shoulder area to help prevent cracks.

[Ragnarok Forge]

thanks for the tip. I will use a round file and put a radius there and then file it square after hardening.

[R H Clark]

I'm sure you already knew that.I didn't even look at who had posted before I suggested the radius.

[KHALVERSON]

clay
i use the goop on all my blades and have produced some hamons on nicholson file blades
i heat the goop to 135-140 degrees
and it works a lot better than using at room temp
kevin

[ArrowCrester]

Here is a File Knife and sheath my cousin Vic made. I have used  it to skin game and it works well. It's easy to resharpen or touch up. The sheath is molded to hold the knife snug. The handle overlays are Corian. The overlay studs are brass.

   

Here is a Bowie knife he made from a blank of Stainless Steele. The sheath he made straps across your back to facilitate easy withdrawal by reaching over your shoulder. The hand guard and studs are brass.

 

[ArrowCrester]

Here is another custom Knife Vic made for me after I shot a P&Y Pronghorn Antelope. I gave him the front foot and he hand crafted this knife from a Stainless Steele blank. He even mounted it on a wood display. The tang guard is brass. The base of the display is driftwood and the deer antler fork is mounted on a brass seat. I thought it was quite nice and have treasured it ever since.        

 

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[Ragnarok Forge]

That last one is really unique.  I like them all a lot.

[aussieman8]

i really want to try making some.