Leather waterproofing for sheaths

[Rusty Snuffers]

What do you guys use to waterproof your sheaths?  I'm using dyes and a finish from Tandy but I'm not sure what to use to seal the finished product.

Thanks,
Rusty

[MikeW]

It will soften the leather but Beeswax & Neatsfoot oil melted together then rubbed it in is great.

 Rubbing won't soften it as much as when you dip the whole thing in hot but either way works great and helps knives from getting rust on them if you leave them in the sheath. If you don't want to soften the leather use straight Beeswax.

[Scott Teaschner]

Every thing I do gets oiled first with pure olive oil. The finish is very important for it keeps the good stuff in and the elements out. I use a lacqure for my finish. I knock the finish down to a satin finish as it dries back. I tend to stay away from pine pitch and sticky waxes they tend to collect dirt and gum after time. For the hobbiest I would say Fiebings Tan Kote would be the easiest to use. It is a water based product that goes on fairly easy and has a satin finish. The next best thing is Fiebings Colorless Harnes Dressing.

[TOEJAMMER]

After I finish wet molding the sheath to the knife and it is dry, I melt   a stick of parafin with a table spoon or so of saddle oil and when liquid, apply it to the sheath inside and out.  I heat it with a hair dryer to open the pores of the leather to let it permeate the leather.  It makes the molded sheath rock hard and impervious to the elements.  When needed,  you can just re-apply.  It works great  for me and I've been doing it to sheaths for over 40 years.

[Rusty Snuffers]

Thanks for all the ideas, guys.  I appreciate it.

Now to get to the store.  

Rusty

[snakewood3]

Slightly thinned marine grade satin spar varnish. If you have inlays give it a thinned coat of clear shellac first.

[robtattoo]

Simple, clear boot polish has always worked for me. Rub it well into the inside of the sheath before you stitch it up, do the outside once it's finished.
Simple, cheap, effective.

[Bobby Urban]

I have a dedicated pot/pan that I use with a lid so that my dip can stay in there and harden back up after I use it.  My mix is about 50/50 parafin wax and a toilet ring.  I get it melted and warm(almost hot) to  the touch and dip all my sheaths in a couple times.  Really puts a nice sealed finish on the leather inside and out.  Cheap too - for those of us that like that sort of thing.

Also works great rubbed into your preheated leather boots.

Bob Urban

[Doug Campbell]

For better or worse I've been using Watco Danish Oil after wet forming and drying for over 20 years now. Has always worked well....

[Bladepeek]

It will darken the leather quite a bit, but I also like SnoSeal melted in with a hair dryer until the leather is pretty well saturated. My guess is it's composed of bee's wax and neatsfoot oil, but just guessing.