Knife making supplies-Newbie

[Boreal Boy]

I am just getting started in knife making and am in the process of making my first Puukko and re handling a full tang knife.
I am going to want to take it to the next level and buy some blanks and supplies and continue making/learning. For my next project I was thinking of getting a Damascus blank but, am having trouble finding some. I can find some made in Pakistan but was hoping to to find some hand forged in North America. The Pakistan full tang blades don’t have the tang hardened, shouldn’t  the tang be hardened as well as the blade?
Any suggestions?
I am looking for 8-9" hunter/skinner, 8-9" bird and trout, 10" big game hunter or 8-9" bush knife. Also, looking for supplies like pins and special epoxies I should be using?
I do eventually plan on buying stock, cutting and hardening and maybe even forging but, one step at a time!
Any and all info is appreciated.
thanks.

[Bladepeek]

If you're looking to buy a finished damascus blade, nearly all of the knife supply internet stores carry them. If you want them made in America, try Two Finger Knife Co. They have a web site, but sell a lot of their stuff on the auction site. They will make a blade to your design quite reasonably.

You don't want the tang hardened and if it's a damascus knife, the tang is most likely a welded on piece of mild steel which wouldn't harden anyway.

Google knife making supplies and you will be surprised at the number of companies out there.  Some are "we have it all" types and some are specialty companies that just have handle material, or services such as stabilizing or dying of handle material. You will find it interesting just looking through their online catalogs.

[skullworks]

Plains brass rod for pins at a hardware store. Most common sizes 1/8", 3/16" & 1/4".
For mosaic pins I use Jantz Supply.
I use West System Marine Epoxy.

[Boreal Boy]

Found a nice little Damascus hunter blade from two fingers I want to use for my first knife "assembly".
I already have three sets of stabilized scales to choose from (Birds eye maple, curly maple and curly birch)
I was just wondering, I will be using proper epoxy so can I just use brass stock as pins for my first "build" OR are corby/loveless/screw type/rivets required to have a solid finish for decades to come?
Yes its my first build but I still plan on having a nice sold knife.
thanks.

[Bladepeek]

If you get your metal and handle material properly clean good epoxy will hold just fine. I generally rough up the sides of the tang (staying inside the outline) to give it a bit of mechanical bonding as well as chemical, but I've never had one come loose. In fact, when one customer didn't like the handle scales and I decicded to replace them, I had to grind even the last couple of .000's off - couldn't peel it.

I think you are going to have a lot of fun and bet you will get hooked.  

[Bladepeek]

By the way, I forgot to mention its absolutely mandatory that you post a pic of the completed knife  

[Track]

Jantz Knife Supply and Alpha Knife Supply is where I buy most of my stuff.

[4est trekker]

Hey, Scott!  Glad to see you getting your hands busy makin' some knives!  Like Bladepeek, I too rough up the tang area, being sure not to interrupt the outline.  I use a Dremel tool with a small cut-off wheel for this task.  I simply cut very shallow diagonal lines 2-3 different directions.  If using a fairly non-porous or stabilized handle material, I also will rough up the scales as well.  

If you can manage it, use a Corby bolt for at least the front pin.  It gives you a good deal of solidity and security for very little work/cost.  OR, you can pein some brass pins and achieve the same result...a tight, solid pin that sandwiches the scales.  (If doing the latter, you just have to be careful that the scale material won't crack as a result of being in contact with the domed head of the peined pin.  If you're worried, add a thin copper or brass buffer/washer.)  

And yes...post some pictures!