Lin,
I was looking to make a meat cutting knife with a simple design. My keys were a thin blade like a filleting/boning knife but with more back bone and deeper blade. I also wanted a fine point that would allow the blade to easily slip between the meat and fascia during the cleaning process. Finally an edge that was close to a kitchen knife. I was also trying to compare the difference with straight back vs drop point. I made six variations from OAL of 8" to 12".
The edge on all except the 12" blade was thin and convexed about 1/4 the way up the blade. The style was very easy to forge compared to the Keeslar style which requires (at least by me) a lot of heats and a lot of straightening due to the disruption of the flare to get just right.
It failed primarily by being too short of a blade. The 12" blade will also fail by being a little too thick in the blade & edge but mostly by being too long & unwielding.
It was a good exercise in that doing the same knife over & over, I got to the point were I could actually count the number of heats/hammerings for each step. I tend to forge my blade to 90% completion. I guess I just prefer forging/blacksmithing over grinding. Of the six blades, these were the final four with the top & bottom thrown out. Except the bottom one (now the sheep horn handled one in the post) has become a very nice belt knife rivaling my Keeslar blades...tippit