Wanting to Try a Blade Blank.. Advice Needed Please...

[Nala]

Hey all,

I would like to try my first knife assembly with a blade blank.  Never done anything like this before.  All I have to do is make and attach the handle.  There's a problem with my choice I think, and I need some help to tell me if something doesn't look right or it would be a mistake for me to start with this particular blank.

I found it on JANTZ.  Here's a link to it.  I can't describe the concerns I have without you seeing it.

 http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ss639.htm

OK, I started looking at it and the holes on the handle don't look right.  They are too close together it seems to me anyway.  OK I would have to put a corby rivet or brass rod in those first 2 holes, right?  Would I also put one in the 3rd cause it looks like it's a different shape and size than the first 2 holes?

My next question is whether this blade is supposed to have a finger guard.  It doesn't look like it does, but I wanted to ask.

Lastly, look at that series of holes at the rear of the handle.  How can I use one of those for a lanyard hole?  If I try and make one of the holes BIGGER it looks like it would go right into the hole next to it and then I'd have a much bigger lanyard hole.

Even though I like the shape, this seems to be a strange blade blank with odd holes in it.

Can you tell me how this blade is SUPPOSED to be finished?  How would you do it?  If I knew that at least I would be more confident in trying this one.  What should I do with the holes for the rivets?

I know it's maybe a dumb series of questions, but I wanted to ask because it just didn't look right to my eye.

If you think I should do some other blade blank, I can skip this one and pick another.
Thank you for your time.

Nalajr

[milehi101]

Let me start by saying that I have had dealings with Jantz and they are quality people.  I have not done many of their blades but I buy a lot of supplies from the.   If you have concerns talk to them on the phone and they will answer all your questions.  I look at the first 2 holes and wonder if they are not distorted by the camera I would think that should be round.  As far as making one of the holes bigger for a lanyard hole I dont that is possible because of the steel being hardened.  I think that for a first attempt the knife you have chosen would make a good knife and last you for many years.  The ladies on the phone there are very knowledgeable give it a try.  One suggestion I would make is to order the wood from the handles from them so you can be sure the wood is stabilized.  This Knife does not have a finger guard as far as I can tell but some of their knives have a kit you can buy and put one on it. Hope this helps GO FOR IT.

[Nala]

Thanks for your time and advice.  Now that you have looked at it and think it's OK, I'll give it a try.  It just looked strange to me and I wanted someone that knew what they were talking about to have a look.

I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what they have to say.

Nalajr

[Rusty Snuffers]

I've done a few knives using Jantz's blades and couldn't be happier with the quality of their products.  The one you chose is likely one of the Japanese-made blades and should hold a nice edge.

The front holes are slotted.  I think they do this to allow for a bit of flexibility in pin positioning, depending on whether you want to ad a bolster, tweak the position a little for aesthetics, etc.  There's a center pin that should hold the scales in place during the glue-up.

I'm not sure about the series of holes at the butt end.  My initial thought was for balance but they don't seem to be big enough to make much difference in weight.  As the previous responder said, the folks at Jantz are helpful and have answered several email messages from me promptly and politely.

Good luck and have fun.  That's what it's all about.  

Rusty

[Bladepeek]

Nala, we've swapped a few e-mails, but what I'm waiting to see is a pic of your finished knife. Don't forget that pics are an important follow up  

[skullworks]

Good info here...

 http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials.htm

[tomsm44]

X2 to what Skullworks said.  I got started making knives with supplies from Pat at North Coast Knives and by reading his tutorials.  Took his information and added to it through trial and error.  I got a lot of good blades from him, as well as other sources.  Just recently started grinding my on blades.  

The pin holes can be enlarged pretty easily on hardened blades.  Clamp your blade in a vice and use a dremel tool with a carbide rasp to open the holes up; only takes a couple of minutes.  I have used this method to allow the use of 1/4" mosaic pins on blades designed for 1/8" pins several times.  Use a piece of pin material the size you want to check your hole regularly so that you don't get the hole too big.  If you do get it a little big, use enough epoxy when attaching your scales to fill the hole entirely and then drill it out when you drill your pin holes in your scales.  You can also do this to use smaller pins than a blank is designed for.

Be warned.  Knife making is very addictive.  Don't get discouraged when you make a mistake.  You'll learn more from one mistake than any tutorial can teach you, and you'll be more likely to remember it.