Hand Axe

[Lin Rhea]

Still playing around with the axe patterns. This is a small one. I figure this would be nice to do small chores around camp and even some field dressing.

The handle is about 10-11 inches. I still have to smooth it a little but I do like the sanded grip as it is.  
     
     

I forgot to mention that this is my first Wrought Iron head with a high carbon bit.

[2treks]

Nice!

[kansas stik man]

very nice lin, if a guy were to somewhat round over the hammer pole and buff it smooth it would be a great skinning hatchet

[akaboomer]

Very nice Lin. Does this one have a mild steel body also?  I like the shape, similar to the Gansfors Bruks axes.

Chris

[4est trekker]

Perfect!

[Lin Rhea]

Thanks. It has a wrought iron body Chris.

[Lin Rhea]

Here's another angle that shows the thickness.
 

[Lamey]

love it

[Steve Nuckels]

I love it too!

Steve
---------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation

[Soonerlongbow]

Nice!

[ymountainman]

Lin you could always shave yer chin whiskers with it in camp. Awesome Job!!

[srtben]

I really like what you have been doing with these axes Lin. I have always had a special place in my heart for axes. I grew up with wood heat for our house, so my summers were spent chopping wood and filling the wood shed. I have always wanted to make one, but I haven't had the tools or opportunity to take on the task.
Again, very nice work!

[Lin Rhea]

Thanks guys.

Ben, I assure you that you can make this axe with the minimum of tools.

First, you'll need to forge a drift of a cross section shape, size, and taper that you like. I just forge mine. Then get you some rectangular stock in the range of 3/4 X 1 or 5/8 X 2 or something like that.

Spend the most time getting the "bowtie" ready. That's the unfolded body of the axe. It will be important to start in the middle demarcating the poll. Then flip it over and demarcate the front of the eye. Then forge the eye walls to a comfortable thickness, without getting too thin. It's very important to note that the eye walls cross from one side of the original bar to the other.(see 1st picture) No thinner than 3/16 to start with, because they might stretch a little with the eye shaping. Then taper and flair the blade halves. Double check everything for symetry before folding. Forge and insert the bit and weld.

It might take a few tries so get extra material. Consider a few failures as research and not beat yourself up over it too much. You will learn something on each one and get better quick with what experience you have already. The following pictures show it coming together. This style shown in the pictures below is a very old pattern but the principles behind any axe would be the same.
 The first two photos show the bar on edge to see the fuller marks.
 
 
 
 
 
 

[ron w]

Cool........  

[2treks]

That is so cool.
I love seeing how its done.
Thank you Sir.
CTT

[amar911]

I didn't realize it was so easy, Lin. Heck, ANYONE could make something that simple -- NOT!!!!!!!!! I really like the way you did that. Thanks for the demonstration photos.

Allan

[atomicjoe23]

Thanks for posting the in-process pictures. . .as a home-hobby blacksmith I always enjoy seeing how others go about doing something. . .it keeps the creative juices flowing!

[Ray Hammond]

Lin those are great photos

That little chopper will be a very handy tool

[Bobby Urban]

Exceptional photo set and tutoral!!  Your tallent never ceases to amaze me as your rough hammer work looks almost machined.  I have made a few by drilling and then drifting the eye but geesh do I struggle not mashing the crud out of my stock getting the eye formed.  

With that wrought I suggest trying a polish and etch on the next one.  Wrought can make for some really cool patterns as the etch eats the silica.

really, really nice little hatchet  -  I love it.