First time with Buffalo Horn - Help!

[Over&Under]

I recently recieved a gift that included a knife blank and some buffalo horn scales.  

I have never worked with that material, only wood and antler.  Is there anything I should know about the buffalo that would make it difficult to work with, or advice, or things to watch out for...I would hate to screw this thing up   :D  

Thanks!!

Jake

[skullworks]

Don't get it to hot or it will warp. I usually put liners on buffalo horn. Never know what it holds for you as you work it.

[Bladepeek]

Use a good sharp belt shaping it and I don't think you can do too much to hurt it. If you use a dull belt - especially a fine grit belt you can definitely heat it up to the point where it starts separating into layers. I have to get it pretty darned hot for that to happen, though.

Like skull works said, their are sometimes some interesting surprises inside - mostly color streaks.

[kbaknife]

Don't use a belt at all.
File it to shape.
As a matter of fact, avoid using belts for shaping knife handles at all costs. Use wood shaping files to avoid any heat at all.

[Bladepeek]

Karl, I think it depends on your handle material. I use a heat-curing epoxy and cure it at 170 - 200 degrees F. I wouldn't do that with ivory, of course, but I have yet to experience any warpage with giraffe bone, buffalo horn or stag. I generally use stabilized woods and have had no problems with them either. Once that epoxy is cured, there is no way the handle can warp and it will not loosen. I have to grind every last bit of the handle material off if I want to change it. You can definitely not peel it off with a flat wood chisel and mallet - I've tried.

I like doing my finish shaping with files, but hog quite a bit of material off with a fresh belt first. Your handles are made to disassemble and obviously have to be treated differently. I don't have your or Lin's ability to finish a guard and handle before final assembly. I try to get a perfect fit fore and aft, then lock everything together and shape the handle material and guard together. That's a big difference between a bladesmith and hobbyist knife maker    

[D.Ellis]

I agree with Karl, you can use a fresh belt if you are very careful, but files are safer. You do not want to overheat it. Also make sure it as dry as possible before you use it so it's less prone to shrink later on. I suppose it probably can't warp after it's glued on, but it can definitely shrink or crack.......don't ask me how I know      
Darcy

[tippit]

I already spent 2 months unable to lift a coffee cup from taking weight off a guys bow by hand...acute carpal tunnel/rotator cuff/biceps tendon inflammation/and three shots of cortisone.  All for $50! I will Never do that again including file a knife handle by hand.  I only shape my handles with my KMG and then a 320/600 quick hand finish.  I do all my finish grinding blade & handle bare handed so I can feel any heat build up.  The only time I've had a handle come off was when I did Not pin it.

PS: I now take weight off a bow with my KMG set up too.  tippit

[Over&Under]

Thanks for the tips fellas...gonna get started on it this week...I will post up a pic when I get it done.

[halfseminole]

I do all my shaping for my powder horns by hand.  I have used a Dremel for cutting horns for the initial cut, but after that it's all hand work.