(Re)Scaling a knife..

[just_a_hunter]

There is so much help posted here I thought I would share a tutorial on how I fit scales to pay it forward so to speak. This method only works for scales that are uniform and level on all sides. Doing un-even scales like antler or others, a different method will need to be used but this is very simple and beginner level.

Thought I would do a pictorial on one of many methods on how to scale a kit knife. There are many ways to do this and I'm sure some are a lot easier, this is just how I do it right wrong or indifferent.

Please make sure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses. You'll not want to breath any of this dust or poke an eye out.

A good buddy of mine sent me a handful of knives that he bought that he was having a hard time getting scales on them. Like most knife makers, I have a backlog a mile long so I don't have time to mess with blades that aren't mine. This is a cheap but nice kit knife and I'm using the materials he sent with it. I'm doing this thread in hopes I can send his other knives back to him and he can give it a better handled go.

I am using machines for this but there isn't anything I'm doing here that can't be done with hand tools. It will take hours and hours longer to do but take your time and use extreme patience. I'm doing this post in as few words and pictures as possible so I'm going to skip a lot of stuff that common sense and thought can solve.

This is how the knife showed up in the mail.

   
     

I have actually seen far worse attempts and the scales were a pain to get off so it was solidly glued. I used a hack saw to get it close to the metal, then used a heat gun to get the glue hot and my belt sander to get it back to the metal.

   

Most knives and especially kit knives are drilled for either 2/16, 3/16 or 4/16 (that's how I remember them). This knife has two 1/8 and 1 1/4.. I had the pins and drills already but it's important to bevel the pin holes. This makes it easier to get the pins through while gluing and gives the glue that much more surface area to bind to.

   

The scales he sent with the knife are micarta (I believe)... This makes it super easy as all surfaces are flat and uniform.
 
   

After getting your pins cut to size, you'll want to rough up the glue, binding side of the scales with coarse sand paper and clean really well with acetone (fingernail polish remover).

 

[just_a_hunter]

The biggest secret to this whole process to get uniform identical scales is..... Drum roll please.... Double sided scotch tape. Tada... Lay a single strip on your scales then stick the binding sides together.

   
     
   

The next step is to drill the scales.. I place the scales plenty deep on the knife and drill the 1/4" hole first, put the pin in, drill the front 1/8" hole, put the pin in and finish with the middle hole and pin. It's super important to get these holes perfect straight so if you don't have a drill press find somebody who does and barrow it for a sec..

   
   
     
   

[just_a_hunter]

The next step is trace your scales out with the pins in the holes, design the ricasso side of your scales how you want and rough cut your scales.

   
   
   
   

Todd

[just_a_hunter]

The next step is to form, sand and polish the ricasso side of the scales so they are very uniform to the eye. Make sure this is done proper as if you separate the scales too soon it's hard to get them put back together perfect.

 
   

 
Once that is done and before you test fit the scales, put a piece of black tape on the ricasso where the scales will overlap the tape, then you can use a hobby knife to cut the black tape perfect to the shape of your scales.

 
   
   
 

At this point you are ready to clean and rough up the metal. First, tape off the rest of the blade to protect it. I sandblast the handle but sandpaper and acetone work just as well. Make sure you acetone and rough the pins and hit the binding side of the scales with acetone again.

 

[just_a_hunter]

At this point you are ready for glue. I use a two part epoxy. You'll want a place to mix your glue, a Popsicle stick to spread it like butter, your hardware and a way to clamp the scales. Use rubber gloves as this stuff will get everywhere until you get good. I lather everything with epoxy and put everything together. I clamp the middle pin first, then the front and back. A few minutes after you clamp, and right when the glue is turning hard (quit running) but is not yet quite set, remove the tape and it will peel the access glue right off the blade leaving a nice finished product. If you do this step too early the glue will just run back over unprotected metal, too late you'll have a hard time peeling the tape but err for too long if you have to..

 
 
 

Todd

[just_a_hunter]

From here on out its just a matter of shaping your scales how you desire and sanding your tang. I used a belt sander and spindle sander but once again, this can be done with hand tools, just take your time.

 
 
 
   
     
 

[just_a_hunter]

Since this is Damascus, I blued the tang instead of polishing it but the more time you spend sanding and buffing,  (a dremmel buffing wheel actually works pretty well with some buffing compound) the better looking your knife will be.

 
   

Finished knife..
     

Anyhow, I hope some of this was helpful.

Thanks for reading,

Todd

[Track]

Great post Todd.

[ymountainman]

Thanks for taking the time to post this. That is a pretty knife!

[gudspelr]

Great explanation and pics. Thanks for taking the time to post it all up. A friend once showed me his trick for keeping that pesky epoxy off the blade/ricasso. Your tape idea is great. If someone removes it too early, here's a way to help with some oozing epoxy:
Get a jar of petroleum jelly and some q-tips. If you get some more epoxy squeeze out, get a glob of the Vaseline on a q-tip and wipe it right down in that front joint of the scale/ricasso. Don't wipe more than once with an end of the q-tip so as not to re-deposit any epoxy. The q-tip will wipe up the excess and leave a film of the Vaseline. Once I'm sure I get pretty well all of the ooze out, I'll be sure and apply a decent glob of Vaseline onto the joint. If anymore squeezes out, the Vaseline is a protective layer over the metal and scales and it's easy to wipe up/clean off after the fact, including off the scales.

Again, great job on the explanation. Some really nice tricks with the electrical and double sided tape. May have to pick some up at the store so I have some for the shop. Bet your friend has more success after seeing your tutorial.


Jeremy

[Canadian Idle]

Thanx for doing the build-along Todd. Can you tell us the brand or name of the epoxy that you use?
Thanx,....Lloyd

[just_a_hunter]

I use Devcon two part epoxy but I think most name rand two part clear epoxy will work. The trick is super clean, rough and degreased binding surfaces.

Good luck!

Todd