'Boo/Ipe/TB III/Gluelines

[Tilbilly]

Used TB III(and lots!) to glue a 'boo backed ipe bow into 3 1/2" reflex. Sanded flat, degreased well. After unclamping(C-clamps) I see I have alot of little gaps at the glueline. Not gaping, more like knife-edge-thin. I figger maybe "trap" the 'boo, hoping to eliminate most of the gaps. Then use compressed air to blow out any gaps still there, then try to get super glue gel into those before proceeding with tillering. Whadya all think? On the right track or do something different?

[Bjorn]

The gel won't flow well into the gaps-use regular superglue, I would think.
I used clamps and strong rubber straps from truck innertubes to get the laminates really tight.
Go to a local tire outlet and he will give you an innertube if you are a customer!

[Pat B]

I would have used thin super glue so it gets down in the voids but other than that sounds OK to me. I have never made a good glue joint using "C" or spring clamps and end up with small voids at the glue line. I'm completing a hickory backed black walnut bow now and used split bicycle inner tubes to bind the components together. This has given me the best glue lines yet and you can shape it to the profile you want after glue up and wrapping with the inner tube.
   It shouldn't be necessary to trap the boo unless it is too much for the belly although trapping makes a boo backed bow look cool.       Pat

[Tilbilly]

Thanks gents! I have the regular superglue, too. I've started the process with that in the gaps now. I'll clamp with rubber tube strips for the next project. I've got a longer draw and leaving it 72" and narrow tips, hopefully keeping stresses minimal in case any other gap problems under the backing.

[b.glass]

What is "trapping" bamboo?

[Tilbilly]

Picture the glueline where belly and backing meet, and taking your file and giving that edge a big chamfer(3/16"?) that removes more of the backing than belly material.
That reduces the width of the backing. The limb crosssection now has a "trap"ezoid shape.Since bamboo is so strong, sometimes this tips the balance a bit more in favor of the belly material.

[Steve Kendrot]

I had a similar problem with a BBO glue up a month or two ago. I had some areas where I did not get squeeze out and wound up with some narrow gaps. I tried filling them with thing super glue. Seemed to work until I got it to about 25" and 55/60 pounds. Sucker blew up on me and when I looked over my notes, found that the break took place at the focal pount of the gap. Not to say yours won't hold, but it sure taught me a lesson about getting a good glue up!

[Tilbilly]

:(    :eek:

[Pat B]

I have never had a glue up fail and have rarely had a decent glue joint. Good glue joints is our goal but for me at least, not always the outcome.
   Steve K, How did your bow blow? did the backing fail, or did the glue joint just come apart?    Pat

[Pluck Yew]

I'm in the process of finishing up BBH..glued with super glue (thicker stuff)...used all my clamps..only got 17..didn't think it were enough clamps..some small spots here and there on glue lines..thought I would just fill them before finale finish..    

Shawn...

[Tilbilly]

Planned on narrow tips with overlays added.
Entertaining pin nocks. Which way would you folks go, bearing in mind it's for more than targets.

[Pat B]

Depends on how much bend you want in your tips. I prefer the last 4"-6" to be stiff so I leave the tips thick but reduce the width after the bow is tillered. This will eliminate a bunch of tip weight(ie. less hand shock, quicker recovery)without reducing strength. The tip size will depend on the wood type but starting out with 1/2"x1/2" at the tip should be a good starting point. I prefer to leave tips at least 1/2" wide and handle areas full width until the very end. That way I can make adjustments later if needed. They are usually the last thing I do before I finish a bow.     Pat
   Pin nocks are cool if you are duplicating an artifact or style but for general use I prefer a narrow, flowing, non bending tip.   Pat