What do you think?

[Pullonmylimb]

I think the lower limb on my Bob Lee takedown is about to blow up.  The stress cacks on the lower limb are about 4 inches long and getting longer.  The overlays at the riser are coming up and delaminating.  You can also see that the glass in the center of the lower limb is moving down the limb.

I bought this bow used so I can't attest to how it was used before ai had it.  There were small stress cracks on the lower limb when I got it ~1/2 inch long.

I noticed about 2 weeks ago that the overlays at the riser were coming up.  I got a little worried but I didn't think it was the end of the world.  Then the lower limb cracks got way longer and i noticed them starting on the upper limb.

I don't know if there is anyway I can fix it or if these limbs are doomed.  What do ya'll think?
   
   
   
   

[Dano]

I'd send it back to Bob Lee, at least they can make new limbs for it, at an additional price.

[bailebr3]

i would send it back. i had a bob less stick do the same. then i got another stick that had a cracked top lam( veneer)....bow was shootable just didnt like the looks if a split the full length of the top limb( belly side)......now i dont own a single lee bow:)

[Tom Anderson]

Yes, send it back to Bob Lee for sure.  Also, please report back what Lee does about it (PM me if you wish).

[Pullonmylimb]

I was kinda thinkin so myself but not sure what they will do for someone who is not the original owner.  Guess I will contact them and find out.  I'll keep ypu all posted.

[hotfootTG]

The overlay lifting is common to almost all Lee's and Palmers (maybe others). I Have 4 of them total, and they all display the same characteristic. The overlay is simply a pad for the inserts / limb bolts and are not structural elements. The riser and the limb bend there when the bow is pulled back and the overlay is so stiff that it won't bend. After a period of time, the outboard edge separates a little.

RE: The 4" stress lines. Vertical stress lines are common on older bows like the Bear '59-'62. They typically do not represent a structural problem. Restoration guys typically flood (fill and sand smooth) the cracks with Locktite 420 (a low viscosity super glue) and continue to shoot them - generally with no problem.

RE: "the glass in the center of the lower limb is moving down the limb." Is it the limb glass moving down or the overlay pulling back? Difficult for the glass in the center to move down the limb. Possibly the overlay is pulling back from the limb but only left epoxy residue in the middle?

You can send it back to Lee but I would guess you’re out of luck with regard to any warrantee work. My guess is they will probably give you a recommendation to replace the limbs with new ones.

If it were my bow; After I checked with the Lee factory, I'd glean the excess epoxy from the overlay/limb joint, Clean the vertical stress cracks with acetone and let it dry good, run a bead of LT 450 down both cracks and lightly sand them smooth. Then clean the whole limb in the top area and give it a few coats of good wipe on poly like Minwax. Keep shooting it, but watch for any signs of progessive loss of structural integrity.

Please keep us posted of the verdict.

Al (Als Decals)

[Pullonmylimb]

I talked to Sandy at Bob Lee this afternoon.  She said Rob would have to look at it but they would probably be able to refinish the limbs.  Cost would be about $100 and 30 to ship it back, hmmm plus 30 down i'm up to $160 give or take.  I assumed they would charge me and that's fine but I can probably pick up limbs for not much more.

I saw the overlays lifting before the cracks got longer and thought pretty much the same as you Al as far as what it would do structurally.  Then I got worried when I noticed what was happening elsewhere.

I guess if the shop would just refinish it they may use a technique very similar to filling and sanding.

Just a couple of clarifications on your suggestions Al if you don't mind.  
Will the locktite pull into the crack by capillary action?
Do I fill the cracks while the bow is strung or unstrung?
I would think I should sand with it unstrung but not sure about filling the cracks.  Logic seems to tell me that they would be the most open when strung.
Also what would you suggest for cleaning the excess epoxy?

[hotfootTG]

Gregory;

1) "Will the locktite pull into the crack by capillary action?"
Not sure what it is, I don't think it's capillary action. The stuff is just so thin (low viscosity) that it will fill the cracks by itself (it just runs into the crack). Be careful with it - It's so thin that it will tend to run all over the place, so have a paper towel handy and apply VERY sparingly. You don't need much to fill those cracks.

2) "Do I fill the cracks while the bow is strung or unstrung?"

Since the cracks are vertical, it doesn't seem that it would make a difference. I think the cracks are from some lateral convexing caused by .... who knows. I would do it unstrung, but if you think they open more when strung - do it. I don't think it will hurt. Consider gluing when strung then unstring it before it dries. LT420 dries pretty quickly, so you don't have much time.

btw - LT420 is not generally available at a common hardware store. Try places similar to Grainger’s. (It's also a little expensive)

3) "Also what would you suggest for cleaning the excess epoxy?"

Scrape it off with a knife / sharp wood chisel, then sand or scrape the limb to the glass from the overlay down past the stress cracks an inch or two. You can scrape the old finish off (I use an old carving knife. Hold it laterally and pull-scrape the finish off. Hold the knife so the back of the blade is tilted toward you a little) then go to 220 and 320 grit paper. Be careful not to gouge the glass with the knife. Only remove the epoxy & the finish, NOT glass. Also, don't sand deeper than the finish layer on the limb glass. (You can sand into the glass just a little but not much). Feather out the transition from the bare glass at the cracks to the old finish about an inch or so past the ends of the stress cracks.

You might try filling the gap between the overlay and the limb with LT when strung also. I would mask the sides of the limb off good to prevent the LT from running back onto the wedge and the riser though. Recommend you mask it, glue it and clamp it. You should dry test your process on this before you start.

Good luck - Al

[Pullonmylimb]

Thanks Al,

I'll get started working on it slowly.  It may take me a while but it's a lot cheaper than sending it back and i'm sure i'll learn a little in the process.

I plan on posting some pics as I go.  Maybe this will help someone else out also.

The glass is clear but I guess it should be pretty obvious when I get to it huh?

Greg

[hotfootTG]

Yes Greg, you should see and feel a change in the way material is coming off. Finish will feel a little 'softer' than the glass. You can also wipe a damp cloth over the area and see the difference between the glass and finish when you get through the layer.

Look forward to the pics.

Al (Als Decals)