Reflex hickory backed bow

[Don Armstrong]

I am going to make a hickory backed bow with reflex. I am going to use hickory backed by hickory. I want to do a osage backed with either hickory or bamboo but will do a couple of cheaper bows before doing the osage. I think I have the glue up and diminsions figured out but have only tillered flat D shaped bows so the deflex is going to be a learning experiance. I am not sure how to make the line from fade to tip on a reflex bow like you do on a D shaped bow. I am thinking I could do the 5/8" to 3/8" and cut out like a D shaped bow and then glue the backing on and induce the reflex. This is just a guess and I would appricate any input to get me aimed in the right direction. Don

[John Scifres]

That should work.

[Apex Predator]

I use a 6' metal ruler.  It's flexible enough to follow the contours for drawing the center line and back profile.

[Don Armstrong]

Thanks guys, I forgot one question. Should I try to leave a little on the belly so I can taper the backing or leave it the same thickness. Don

[John Scifres]

You could but you don't have to.  As long as your backing is 1/8" or less it should not matter especially since you are using the same material for back and core.

[Pat B]

Are you cutting the backing from the same board? If so rotate the backing 180 so the grain in both work against one another.
   When marking out a bow I draw a line across the back every 4" from the handle to the tips and mark from the center line to these outside lines the width I want. It is easy to connect the dots every 4" to complete the outline of the limb. If the stave isn't straight I use a pencil in a centering tool to mark the center line. The centering tool is similar to Eric's "gizmo" with a short piece of dowel at each end. You lay the tool on the back of the bow with a dowel on either side and up against the bow. The pencil will be in the center of the stave no matter what the shape.   Pat

[Don Armstrong]

I will be using a backing from a different board. It will probably be about 1/4" so do I need to taper it or just cut it to 1/8". Thanks guys, Don

[Springbuck]

If they are both hickory, you could do a 1/8" backing, or have them basically the same thickness.  If the grain is good on the actual back, you could do whatever you want.  Just make sure you won't rub your belly lam thin while tillering.  For that reason, I'd probably make it thicker to begin with.

[Don Armstrong]

Thanks guys, I will be getting started real soon. Don

[Pat B]

I cut hickory backing strips at 3/16" thick. By the time you dress up both surfaces you will come out with 1/8" thick backing.
   I also like to pre tiller the belly a bit so I get a nice even bend through each limb so your reflex comes with a nice even bend. If you don't, most of your reflex will be in the handle area.     Pat

[Roy Steele]

It will work great.I've done a couble.I don't reflex my own any bows any more.If the reflex isn't all ready in the stave.Unless it's done through seasoning.I'll get alot of grief from this one.But if it's not tillered correct'ly about 7,8, out of 10 won't make it with hard use.
  And I founnd out if you reflex just in the handle you will get some hand shock.Stay natural your bows may not look as good or be as fast.Theres nothing wrong with speed,but remember it can make your bow more sentive also not that it will matter ot your averge shooter but it can to some.


    DEAD is DEAD no matter how fast your arrow got there.

[Roy Steele]

It will work great.I've done a couble.I don't reflex my own any bows any more.If the reflex isn't all ready in the stave.Unless it's done through seasoning.I'll get alot of grief from this one.But if it's not tillered correct'ly about 7,8, out of 10 won't make it with hard use.
  And I founnd out if you reflex just in the handle you will get some hand shock.Stay natural your bows may not look as good or be as fast.Theres nothing wrong with speed,but remember it can make your bow more sentive also not that it will matter ot your averge shooter but it can to some.


    DEAD is DEAD no matter how fast your arrow got there.