Author Topic: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings  (Read 981 times)

Offline Dan Landis

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Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« on: November 06, 2008, 08:18:00 AM »
Hi guys,  Would like some input on properly drying a black locust sapling.  I recently cut one, peeled the bark, roughed out the shape on the belly side and sides of the limbs.  I also left the handle section intact.  the sapling was 1-1/2" in dia. and 6' long.  I coated the ends, back and the handle section of the stave with tite bond glue.  About 3 weeks into the drying time it developed a deep crack down the center of each limb.  What did I do wrong?  I have access to more saplings and would like to make a self bow out of one.

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2008, 09:02:00 AM »
That sapling was pretty small and would be mostly sapwood. Sapwood dries about twice as fast as heart wood which causes it to crack unless it is sealed very well. Shellac is a much better sealer than TB but my not have saved a mostly sapwood stave.

See if you can find a sapling at least 4" in diameter for your stave, it will make you a much better bow than a smaller one.

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2008, 09:27:00 AM »
My first shooter was made from a BL selfbow. I still have it fron '92/93. I just leave the bark on but like Eric said if you remove it seal the back with poly or shellac. Ends should be sealed right away. BL looses moisture fast.  Now keep in mind that the best scenario is to remove all the sapwood. BL likes heartwood backs. Also, keep in mind that the closer you get to the heartwood the stringer the sapwood layer is. So in a sapling the sapwood is pretty close so you have a good chance for success. I do think there are better choices for sapling bows like hickory, oak, maple, hop hornbeam, etc. I am not an ash man but you can add that to the list somewhere. Have fun.

Offline Dan Landis

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Re: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2008, 09:54:00 AM »
Eric and Jawge, thanks for the quick response.  Eric you are right, is was mostly sapwood.  I'll look for a 4" or larger one to cut, in my area there are locust saplings everywhere, finding one without limbs that is staight enough is the problem.  Should I rough out or let bark on and just seal the ends?  Thanks again.

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2008, 11:12:00 AM »
It will dry a lot quicker roughed out but be sure to put at least 4 coats of shellac on the back.

Offline Roy Steele

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Re: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2009, 11:21:00 AM »
Handle it just like O'sage.Cut seal the ends.Keep in the shade.Leave the bark on.
  You need at least a 10'tree.If you wish to make a limb bow use hickory,elm white wood makes a much better limb bow.
DEAD IS DEAD NO MATTER HOW FAST YOUR ARROW GETS THERE
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Offline Roy Steele

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Re: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2009, 11:24:00 AM »
Handle it just like O'sage.Cut seal the ends.Keep in the shade.Leave the bark on.
  You need at least a 10'tree.If you wish to make a limb bow use hickory,elm white wood makes a much better limb bow.
DEAD IS DEAD NO MATTER HOW FAST YOUR ARROW GETS THERE
 20 YEARS LEARNING 20 YEARS DOING  20 YEARS TEACHING
  CROOKETARROW

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Suggestions For Drying Black Locust Saplings
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2009, 10:06:00 PM »
BL sapwood can work for a back. Admittedly, that is not the best scenario. BL likes a heartwood back.  I meant to say that my first shooter was  made from BL sapling. You cut it. Try it. Jawge

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