Splicing boards

[Don Armstrong]

I have recently got a bunch of hickory boards that are 7/8" thick and 8 foor long. Some will make good bows but some have knots and other imperfections but I could get good 40" pieces from most of them. Has anyone took two pieces and spliced them in the handle to make a board bow. If so, could you induce some reflex and what type of joint would work. Thanks, Don

[Pat B]

Don, I have spliced board bows with good success. You must add a wood(or boo)backing. Once you add the backing and handle riser the handle splice is secure. When you glue on the backing you can add reflex.
 Cut your board to shape including the handle area. Cut out your splices("Z" or "W"), glue and clamp it and let it cure. When that is done add the backing with Perry reflex.     Pat

[Don Armstrong]

Thanks Pat, I was thinking about a tounge and groove joint but the Z-W would be easier to do. Don

[Pat B]

The "Z" is the easiest. Lay the 1 half on top of the other and cut both together.     Pat

[Springbuck]

I often splice boards with either W, V, or Z splice.  If I am splicing a 1/2" thick board or so, then adding a handle and a backing, they never come apart on me.  I have not induced setback this way but have done a jillion other things.  Once I spliced the boards, then thinned the area with the splice, and introduced deflex there while glueing up an Oreo handle.

  Also, I make a lot of tri-lams and just use a skive splice and stagger them at each layer.

  Lastly, I just bought a router bit tha does finger-joints.  I am positive that finger-jointing lams will be really strong, as long as I am using a backing and handle piece..