Tillering Problems

[Directdrive]

Hi, All:  My first post to this board.  I am a long time bowhunter.  Started in the early 60's with a longbow.  Got a recurve in the late 60's.  Went to a compound in the early 70's.  Now, I'm back to a longbow.

Decided to build one on my own.  Got some hickory staves and the first two wound up in the fireplace.  The third has come out well.  It pulls 60 @ 28.  The limbs seem to be even when viewed from the side.  The string follows the center of the bow.  It pulls well and does not stack too much.  My problem is that when strung, if I look down the back of the bow from end to end, one side of the back is higher than the other all the way down on both limbs.

My question is this:  Do I remove wood from the belly of the bow on the high side or the low side to bring both side even?

Thanks!

[Pat B]

Does it shoot OK?  If so, shoot it and don't worry about the twist. Wood bows can handle a bit of twist without ill effect. If you want to fix it you can clamp it to a form, back down and heat and adjust the twist with clamps and wedges.
   You can remove wood from the strong side(low, bending the least) but that will also reduce the draw weight.    Pat

[Directdrive]

Thanks, Pat.  Guess I have to make a decision about draw weight.  And yes, it shoots just fine.  It just bothers me that it has the high side / low side syndrome.

[Pat B]

When dealing with wood bows, sometimes you have to put up with such character traits. When dealing with FG bows, everything is milled flat and true and the way it is laid up makes a big difference. With wood bows, especially self bows you deal with what you have and make the best out of it. Two different animals all together.     Pat

[Directdrive]

Once again Pat, Thanks.  I went ahead and shaved off the strong side and it evened the back of the bow up really well.  I only lost 2 lbs according to my scale.  I can live with that.  

I've made a few laminated wood and fiberglass bows years ago.  I stayed with reflex/deflex and straight end longbows.  Of the three I made, two survived and still shoot well today.  The one that failed, delaminated on the riser....too sharp a curve from belly to riser handle.  The other two didn't have that problem.

Frankly, I think it's harder to make a selfbow than it is to lay up a wood/fiberglass bow.  

Thanks

[George Tsoukalas]

Nice! Congratulations on your first bow. Enjoy it in good health. Jawge

[Pat B]

I made one FG bow and never got to shoot it. It went at the fade also. The most stressful place on a bow.
  I'm glad your bow worked out. Have fun shooting it.    Pat

[Roy Steele]

I agree with PAT if you shoot it ok my mess with it.The deer can't see the twist when the arrow go's through him.If do it right he won't see you or the bow.
  But if you have to do it and I under stand if you do.You have to take off high side or I should say the strong side.But you will lose weight this way.

[Roy Steele]

I agree with PAT if you shoot it ok my mess with it.The deer can't see the twist when the arrow go's through him.If do it right he won't see you or the bow.
  But if you have to do it and I under stand if you do.You have to take off high side or I should say the strong side.But you will lose weight this way.

[bowmaker07]

I've struggled with this for awhile. Which side do you remove wood to correct twist, high or low?

[George Tsoukalas]

Sometimes a stave is naturally twisted. I generally leave those alone and just make the bow. In the early days, I would cause the twist by uneven wood removal. I always favor one side of the limb over the other. Now I visually scan the stave to make sure this doesn't happen. I also check by feel to make sure wood removal is even as I remove wood. The side that twists is the weak side which is the side closest to the bow string in the strung bow. Remove wood from the high side or the strong side. Exercise the bow at partial draws for the change to register 2- times or so. Above all be Like Curly Joe of the 3 Stooges and head for this town called "Goslow".    Jawge