is this set on board bow?

[blind one]

I'm making my first board bow. The more I try to get the limbs to bend the same the more curve stays in the bow. I can flex the opposite way and it takes the curve out. I know I'm going to have to back it because my draw is long, but should I keep it straight until then? Or should I put some r/d in the bow?....Roy

[Pat B]

You are either forcing and stressing your stave or it is still too damp. I'm guessing it is the former. When a bow takes set the wood cells are damaged and collapsed. In most cases the damage is irreversible. If you continue to bend it back it will eventually break.
   I would suggest that you learn to tiller without stressing the bow before you attempt a R/D style bow. George Tsoukalas' website(and Mickey's site if it is still up)will tell you everything you need to know about board bows from selecting the board to completing the the bow.   Pat

[blind one]

Thanks Pat. Should I scrap this one or continue working on it?

[Pat B]

If it has more than 2" or 3" of set, I'd start over with another board. The most valuable tool you can have for making bows is patience. If you try to rush it, you will usually be disappointed.
   That bow may still make a good kids bow. Usually they don't care how it looks as long as it will fling an arrow.    Pat

[blind one]

My son already claimed it for himself    . I'm going to let him finish it and start another for myself. It will be a good experience for both of us...Roy

[Pat B]

With each bow you will improve! I've built a couple of hundreds of wood bows and I am still improving.     Pat

[George Tsoukalas]

Thanks, Pat. Is this a kiln dried board, Blind One?
Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Springbuck]

And BTW, bending it back will generally be a bad idea.  It will usually just serve to break the wood down further.  Sometimes you cna get away with it using heat...

[Glenn Newell]

I don't think bending a bow back to remove set is a good idea. Every selfbow I make I always try to improve on the last one and learn something new each time...Glenn...

[blind one]

Im not sure if it was kiln dried or not. I'm going to let my son finish this one and start another for myself. He was sanding on it lastnight to get the handle how he wants it. He doesnt draw very far so it should be good for him to play with. This is all trial and error for me so I'll mark this one down as experience and move to the next. Hopefully someday I'll get one that I can shoot. Until then, There will be a whole bunch of kids in the neighborhood with new selfbows...  

[John Scifres]

I would practice tillering thie one for your son.  Do it together.  Learn together.

I also wouldn't recommend shaping a handle or naming a bow before it has at least 100 full draw shots through it.

You also don't have to back.  Just make it longer.  A bendy handle red oak that is 72" long should be able to handle even a 30" draw.

[blind one]

John, For future reference, Doesnt the shape of the handle change how the bow draws? I'm just a beginner at this so I dont know. Will it effect the flex in the bow?

[Pat B]

Handles and tips are always the last thing I do to a bow before I put on the finish. I leave the handle area blocky so I have a place to clamp the bow while working and slight adjustments can be made by removing wood from one side or the other on both the handle area and the tips.  Pat

[John Scifres]

If it is a stiff handle, in other words, the design does not allow the handle to bend, the shape of the handle should not be a factor in tillering.  Advance bowbuilders may consider it but don't complicate your life right now.  Make it straight.

After the bow is actually a bow, in other words, you have shot it a bunch at full draw, shape the handle to your liking without removing enough wood so that it will bend.  

If you make it appreciably thinner or narrower, it may start bending there.  That is generally not good.  

Selfbows traditionally do not have contoured, locater style handle found on modern glass bows.