Author Topic: Silver Maple (Read 1805 times)

talkingcabbage · « **on:** January 12, 2009, 10:10:00 PM »

So I managed to get out to my uncle's farm this weekend and check out some of the trees that the electric company cut down (some of you may remember a post I made asking about elm, ash, and black locust). I found this really nice chunk about 8' long and 12" in diamter. I thought it was a shagbark hickory at first, but now I'm convinced it's silver maple (mostly because my uncle told me he thought it was a maple) I've already started splitting it for staves, but I'm wondering if anyone has made a self bow from silver maple before, and what are some rough dimensions I should start with? I'm thinking of steam bending some reflex in the limbs, and I read on paleoplanet that silver maple is like hickory in that it's great in tension, so a crowned back isn't all that bad.

Any suggestions before I start? I'm planning on posting pictures for a build-along once I get going here. When I get a few staves split, if anyone is interested in getting one to try, I'll try to get one to you.

Anyway, thanks in advance!

Joe

Crimson mist · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2009, 03:41:00 AM »

silver maple is listed as .47 specific gravity the same as big leaf maple and is classified as a true bow wood and I have made nice longbows from big leaf. But a wide limb flatbow of about 67 to 69 inches and 2 inch wide limbs for 2/3rds of each limb tapering to 1/2 inch nocks would make a nice, durable shooter for a 28" draw

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2009, 08:17:00 AM »

Thanks crimson. I was thinking somewhere around 1 3/4" wide tapering to 1/2" starting around 15" from the tips, so I guess I'm on the right track. What do you think about a pyramid style for this wood?

Also, how far should I go as far as chasing a ring? I mean, should I go just under the bark, or do I need to chase a ring a little further in?

Joe

John Scifres · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2009, 08:57:00 AM »

Silver maple is not a good bow wood in my experience. In theory, it should work. In practice (mine at least) it failed. Definitely go with the longer and wider design. Tiller gently and make sure it is dry. If I had access to hickory or good ash, I'd invest my time in that first.

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2009, 10:14:00 AM »

John,

The only reason I started splitting this log was that I thought it was hickory. The bark looks very similar, and without any leaves or branches, it was a good guess.

I've looked on paleoplanet and they rate silver maple right up there with hickory, elm, ash, and all the other "good bow woods". I think I will stick with the wider limbs just to be safe.

Joe

Crimson mist · « **Reply #5 on:** January 15, 2009, 06:26:00 AM »

Joe I think I would try a limb with more wood mid limb until I got the feel of how it bends and the durability then maybe play with narrow outer limbs. Taking this approach usually lets me have at least one usable bow out of the wood I'm experimenting with instead of discouraging splinters. Keep us in the loop as I'm interested in your progress as we have a few silver maples around here

John Scifres · « **Reply #6 on:** January 15, 2009, 10:29:00 AM »

I have a 12" dia., straight and clean silver maple in my front yard that's coming down late this winter. Anyone want it? You'll have to pick it up or I can bring it to Cloverdale in June.

Jason buhl · « **Reply #7 on:** January 20, 2009, 10:13:00 PM »

I've made a couple of bows out of it,they shot great at first but after about 50 arrows the belly's crushed. It is very good in tension but very poor in compression. If I were to try again I would go long and wide on the design.

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #8 on:** January 21, 2009, 04:17:00 PM »

Jason, what were the measurements that you used? I'm looking for a starting point other than "wide and long" I was thinking around 2" wide at the fades and around 66" long. Do you think this wide/long enough? Do you have (or can you get) any pics of yours so I can see what you mean?

Joe

Jason buhl · « **Reply #9 on:** January 21, 2009, 08:08:00 PM »

sorry, I guess wide and long isn't a very good description. The measurements I used were 66" knock to knock ,4" handle,2" fades on each side of handle then 1 3/4" wide limbs until about 8" from tips tapering to 3/8" knocks. I tried to get them about 55# which might have been too heavy for the wood. Like I said they shot great for the first 50 or so shots then the bellys developed crysals through the belly. I think a little wider limb and less draw weight would work alot better. I hope this helps. Let me know how it works out.

ChristopherO · « **Reply #10 on:** January 21, 2009, 08:14:00 PM »

Silver maple is very soft when compared to suger (hard rock) maple. I personally wouldn't fool with it unless I had too much time on my hands. If you notice you will usually find it in manacured lawns in suburbs as it grows fast and makes a fair shade tree. Kind of like a Bradford pear, ever notice how those break down in big winds?
I can see why you might think it is shag bark hickory as it gets pretty shaggy, too, as it grows bigger. But the silver maple bark is much more smooth textured than a shagbark hickory. And Hickory is sooo much better!!

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #11 on:** January 21, 2009, 10:10:00 PM »

Christopher,

When I realized it was silver maple, I had already spent two days splitting the thing, so now I'm either gonna make it work or die trying.

That's just how stubborn I am.

And actually, I looked it up on paleoplanet and it seems to have a similar sg to hickory (although not as good), and is listed in the "true bow woods" section. I think it will work out okay, I need to just take it super slow. I plan on doing a build along as soon as the staves are dry enough, so maybe I'll get some good advise (and learning experience

) when I can get some pictures on here.

Joe

Minuteman · « **Reply #12 on:** January 22, 2009, 07:20:00 AM »

How long did it sit on the ground before you split it?

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #13 on:** January 22, 2009, 08:15:00 AM »

It sat for about a month, but it's been bloody cold here. Down to -35 on some days. I'm confident the bugs haven't had a chance yet.

Joe

John Scifres · « **Reply #14 on:** January 22, 2009, 08:41:00 AM »

Take your best stave and get it to rough bow dimensions. Leave the handle and tips wide for now while it dries. Go with 70" NTN, 2" just outside the handle. Extend the 2" width to midlimb and then taper to 1/2" nocks. Make your handle 4" and your fades 3". Thin it to 5/8" all the way from the fades to the tips. Let it dry in a moderate temp and humidity for a week or so. Basements are good. Then bring it into your heated house. Somewhere like a closet will be safest for now. Leave it one week and then move it to a warmer spot, like the curtain rod above a heat register. Leave it one week and your should be able to work it.

Tiller slowly and carefully. Go for 50# but never bend it past 40# until you get draw lengths up in the 20"s. Post pics on the tiller tree. Use a pulley setup that allows you to bend it just enough to see the tiller. Do not use a tillering stick that requires you to leave the bow-to-be bent for long periods.

Good luck. Have fun.

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #15 on:** January 22, 2009, 10:21:00 AM »

John,
Those measurements are a big help. Thanks! The poundage you're suggesting is what I wanted to shoot for also. The bow will be for my dad, and he's got some shoulder troubles and wanted a 45-50# bow. I do plan on posting pics as I go, sort of a build along. Thanks again!

BTW, the setup you're describing is exactly what I have already.

Joe

John, the 3" fades seems like a lot to me. What are the advantages of having a longer fade, versus a shorter one (I've done 1.5" fades before on board-type bows)?

John Scifres · « **Reply #16 on:** January 22, 2009, 12:34:00 PM »

The longer fade allows for a more gradual dip from handle thickness to working thickness. On a 70" bow, you have the ability to make a longer riser section which will lessen limb mass but still reduce string angle. You could easily shorten them to 2" if you want the aesthetic. Just be cognizant of where you transition from non bending to bending. It is super easy to hinge there with compression weak woods.

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #17 on:** January 22, 2009, 02:55:00 PM »

Okay John, thanks a bunch. I won't have any time to work on it this weekend, but I'm gonna try to hit it next weekend. I'll be sure to take lots of pics.

Joe

talkingcabbage · « **Reply #18 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:19:00 PM »

I just wanted to bring this to the top for those who might want to know where I got the silver maple from and the great advise I recieved.

Joe

Roy Steele · « **Reply #19 on:** January 29, 2009, 03:25:00 AM »

I have a few problems maple.All the things I don't do to my bows.But it can make a good bow if you follow a few rules.First off if you back it well make a better bow and it will last much longer.Next make it long,wide 2"s with at least half wide at the nocks.Larger would be better.
Heat is a no on white wood and maple is a real lite white wood If not complete'ly dryed the limbs will twist.Remember if you do use heat,heat the hole stave.The wood will have less memory the thicker it is.
I don't use heat any more if the stave's not natual enough to get a bow out of it I don't use it.I keep everything natual.Makes better bows that way.They last twice as long.
ROY

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