Horn Nocks

[bigcountry]

I got a set of horn nocks from 3rivers.  So how hard are they to fit up with a yew longbow?  Never done it before and sitting here debating on trying.  

I have put antler overlays on with good luck, but I figure once I start shaping the ends, there is no turning back.

[Art B]

Take a 1/2" wood dowel and practice on that first. Mark your length (to be tapered) on the dowel with masking tape and taper four sides from the tape to a point. From there just knock off the remaining corners until round. ART B

[Pat B]

I have found them to be a pain in the arse but I get better with each set I've made. I do like Art suggested with the 1/2" dowel. Attach the horn to the dowel to shape it then when it is done remove it and attach to the bow tips. I used ferrel tite to attach it to the dowel and just heated it a bit to remove it.
   Are the horn drilled with a tapered hole to fit the bow?  If not, a 1/2" or 5/8" spade bit with the corners ground down to the point works well to drill the horn. Then I match the taper on the bit to the bow tip.
   I have used both epoxy and TBIII to glue the horn nocks on. Be sure you don't put them on backwards like I did on one bow. d;^)
  This is the horn nocks from the bow I donated to Huntsman Lance's reenactment group.
 
 
 
     Pat

[bigcountry]

Thanks guys.  I will give em a try.  Things are looking up on my yew bow.  I tillered some more and I am about at 50lbs at 20" and things look better.  The bow is not twisting as bad.

[Pat B]

Mark. Try to get the transition area thinned out as much as you can. Stringing the bow with abrupt transition can be difficult. I started adding a thread wrap just below the horn to make the transition easier.
Also, NEVER use a cup type stringer on these nocks or you will break them off. I put 2 string grooves in each nock. The outer most is for the stringer. My longbow stringer is made just like the string and fits in the upper groove and is removed after stringing.    Pat

[bigcountry]

Pat, I was kinda worried also about that transition area.  To cone out, I will be cutting thru my earlywood.  Looks to be a possible point of failure.

When I cone it out, should I try to do it in a way to leave as much early wood there?  

Thanks for the tip on abrupt change.  I will practice on a dowl or another piece.  I like whittlin anyway.

I figured I could use parachute cord for a stringer with two loops

[bigcountry]

You know I was just reading the reviews on 3Rivers, and think I have changed my mind.  I was looking at these horn nocks, and there is not much tip that goes into them.  The reviews showed that they can crack because they are too small.

So I guess I am back to overlaying or trying to make my own.  I have never shaped horn before.

Is there any trick to it?

[Pat B]

be ready for STINK!  they really smell when you grind them. I use my table top belt sander for most of the shaping and files to do the rest. It is pretty easy while it is stuck on the dowel.
  I tried to taper the tips so there was at least some of the sapwood inside of the nock. As long as the string is below where the bow's tip is in the horn the nocks will work fine. If you add the stringing nocks also, be sure they are below the limb tips too.
  I have also used and seen others use deer antler for horn nocks. They have to be pretty big to work though...at least 3/4" in diameter.

[bigcountry]

Antler stinks too grinding.

Has anyone ever used deer hoof?  I saved the hooves from a few deer this year. Wasn't sure if they were hard enough or enough material on them.

A bowyer in Wash state uses elk hoof with elk bone underneith for a two layered deal that looks nice.

Here is some antler I have done.  Unfortately, I have to cut em off to pike this bow.

   

[Art B]

What's the link to the reviews Bigcountry? I would think that once they're glued down that they would be very solid. Wouldn't know though, never used 'em. But they do like look better than the few I've made. Price looks mighty good after doing a few also. Once you got 'em shaped and removed from the dowel you'll be surprised how delicate they look. Very durable once permantly glued on.

If you're going to shape them yourself either make or buy a conical bit suitable to drill your hole around 1 1/8" deep X 1/2" wide as Pat suggested. One you have a retangular block of horn temporarily glued (I use wood glue for this) on your dowel draw out the back and side profile you're after. Shape from there and once finished just place in boiling water until you can remove the nock from the dowel.-ART B

[bigcountry]

Here's the review

 http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.asp?show=rate&c=49&s=154&p=0&i=8567X#full

You only can put the tip in about 1/2" or so.

[Art B]

That's not nearly deep enough. I won't want them either. Thanks for posting the link. ART B

[Lost Arra]

I made an impression of the inner surface of the ground horn then just filed the limb tip to match.
Still a PIA but I guess that's why a lot of folks make just one set of horn nocks in their bow building careers (excluding the ELB guys).      

I have not finished polishing the horn (I got tired of messing with them)
 

 

[bigcountry]

Hey lost, they look nice.  Are these ones you made, or did you buy these from 3r?  I talked to rudderb and they said they were the ones who sold to 3r.

[Lost Arra]

Mike Yancey
 http://www.pinehollowlongbows.com/

[tim-flood]

I was thinking about trying to make some out of hickory or osage just for show, then painting them