osage bow design

[fujimo]

what are the general feelings for a good osage design.
i have a really nice straight stave from mike mcguire. and if i were to make the top limb 2 - 2.5 inches longer than the bottom limb, then the stave would permit a bow 67" ntn.
the stave is currently 2" wide at the fades.
my draw length is 28.5".
i am about 6'2" so dont mind the longer bows- in fact i prefer them.
the reason why i ask is that there seems to be some different design ideas- i realise the bow has to be matched to the wood.
some designs advocate a steady taper from fade to tip, others taper from fade slowly out to a point then taper radically to the tip.
TBB vol 1 mentions a perfectly symmetrical bow design- same limb lengths, top and bottom!!
(and still many more designs , beyond mention)
i read the thread on pyramid bows for osage.
just need some guidance- just want to build a bow that will be durable and consistant- accuracy is of far greater importance to me than arrow speed- now i know a lot of this boils down to good tillering, i just need a good starting point.
i have built a bunch of bows now- but this would be my first osage.
thanks
wayne

[John Scifres]

For overall good hunting bow design, you really can't go wrong with Dean Torges' "Hunting the Osage Bow" design.  I recommend the book.  You will get a nice bow using it.

I really have grown to love short, bendy handle osage bows.  60" or less and between 1" and 1.25" wide from midlimb to midlimb and tapering to a 1/2" nock.  I like to flip the tips.

[DCM]

It would help some to hear what kinds of bows you prefer in other woods, whether you want to 3d shoot, or still hunt, or stand/ambush hunt.

67" Ntn would be more than plenty for a stiff handled bow to draw 29" smoothly.  1 1/2" to midlimb, depending on other elements like length is usually enough width to make hunting weight bows, up to 60#.

I personally prefer to have the arrow pass about 1" above center for a bow over 64", tending more towards dimensional center as the bow length is shortened.  1" above would be plenty for a 67", 2 1/2" I'd view as excessive for a 4" handle.

If there's some feature in the stave which requires the arrow pass be placed as you described, I'd shorten the overall lenght the 1" or so necessary to put the arrow pass about 1" to 1 1/2" above center.  By my reckoning that would yield about 66" NTN.

I like a 4" L stiff handle, 3/4" W x 1 1/4" D to 1 1/2" D at the arrow pass, 2" L fades which move slightly, generous bend on the inner 2/3rds of the limb, stiff and agressively narrowed outer 3rd.  For 60# @ 29" I'd start with 1 5/8" W layout and perhaps width tiller once I get up to 24" draw on the tree or so and see where I am in terms of set.

Hope this helps.

[Roy Steele]

Over years and at least 20 O'sage bows. I've came to this design.I'm not saying it's rihgt.But it works for me.And if your stave is as nice as you say it will make a fast,durable bow and if seasoned and tillered right you won't have string follow.I like them to be around 64"s as low as 60" no lower for me.But I like it to be 64"s sence your tall and like your bows long you deside on th leanth.

[Roy Steele]

SORRY,about that.
 I make the bottom limb 1 1/4"s longer than the top limb.But I have made about 1/2 of my bows with the same size limbs.Which it tillered right works fine.YOU ONLY NEED TO MAKE YOUR BOTTOM LIMG SHORTER IT YOU STOOT YOUR BOW EXSEAIVE'LY thats my opinion.I make my handle 3 3/4"S I have a small hand.4"s will be fine.1 1/2 above my shelf I cut my handle in so my hands as close to my shelf as posable.And debending on my stave.I cut my shelf to center shot or as close as my stave will let me.I make my limbs 1 1/2"S TO 1 5/8"s tapper down to 7/8"stop 4"s from the nock.Tapper down to 3/8"s at the nock leaveing it heavey enough that it stays stiff.
    Tiller from fades to 4"s from the stiff end.Tiller as far into the fades as you can.The more working limb the better.
    Here's what I found out when tillering.When it looks good and even.Take a break when you come back it may look different.REMEMBER GO SLOW
    This is the best way to build a nice fast,durble hunting bow that will out last you.Sorry when Italk bows I lose my mind.

[Jack Skinner]

OK My 2 cents worth.

67 to 68 inch to pinnock shoulders. Upper limb 1 to 1.5 inch longer than lower I like the ballance this gives my bows. 3/4 to 1 inch bulbs handle 4 inch long. 1.5 to 1 3/4 wide at least 3/4 the length of the limb then taper to 1/2. I like to tiller right up to the handle and usually whip tiller a bit compared to others. I use a lot of limb and with a little set back get zero to 1/2 inch of string follow. I also use a very short one inch to one and half inch fade. I suppose it is a stiff handle D bow.

[Pat B]

I draw 26". I like bows between 60" and 66"(t/t) and like draw weights around 55#. Dean Torges book is an excellent reference for building hunting bows. Unlike Dean, I prefer a symmetrical bow design with the handle centered on the bow and with the arrow pass about 1" or slightly more above center. I also prefer my limbs to bend into the fades or sometimes even through the handle with the last 4" to 6" of the tips stiff. For osage bows I like about 1 3/8" wide at the fades and depending on the stave, sometimes I begin the taper at the fades and sometimes I go out a few inched before beginning the taper.

[fujimo]

thanks for all the input guys
ta.

[shamus]

my thoughts on osage bow design:  http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/05/osage-flat-bow-dimensions.html

selfbow length:  http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/06/selfbow-length.html

hope that helps

[ozarkcherrybow1]

Torges' book "Hunting the Osage bow" sound like the exact bow you are wanting to make. I also highly recommend it.....Terry