Author Topic: Using urac  (Read 637 times)

Offline OkKeith

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Using urac
« on: March 17, 2009, 04:09:00 PM »
Hey guys,

I have used urac on hickory backed osage longbows for a few years now but always have the same problem.

When I score the glueing surfaces with my home-made toothing plane I get a bad glue line on the edge after sanding. The grooves run off the edge and make wide and narrow places. Or it is wavey on the ends of risers.

How do I avoid this (doesn't hurt the bow performance, just looks bad) without lowering strength of the bond?

Thanks,
Keith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Using urac
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2009, 04:55:00 PM »
Sounds like your glue surfaces aren't perfectly flat to begin with or you are getting too aggressive with your toothing plane blade. It doesn't take too much surface scoring to make a really bullet proof Urac joint.

Offline No-sage

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Re: Using urac
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2009, 07:04:00 PM »
I didn't like that look either.  I don't tooth the backing too deeply and I don't tooth the belly slat at all anymore.

The belly slat comes out of my sander rough from the 36 grit belt.  That has been plenty rough enough.

Offline OkKeith

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Re: Using urac
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2009, 08:58:00 AM »
Eric and Keith,

Thanks for the help guys. Guess I always thought I needed noticable grooves for the urac to hold. Never had anything come apart, but was always concerned about it. I will ease up on the toothing plane on my next go round.

Thanks again for the advise.

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

Offline bmgarto

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Re: Using urac
« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2009, 12:11:00 PM »
I sand with 60 grit paper. I had the same problem. I know others do this as well. I have never had one fail yet.

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