Another newbie layout question

[rogerbw]

I don't have enough meat in my osage stave to get the width I want. It's close, so it will only be an issue at the widest part of the upper limb
 

 As you can see, the one side is at about 90 degrees to the back, where as the other side cuts in dramatically towards the belly.
So here's my question. Would it be prudent to make the belly more narrow than the back to keep maximum width, or make it a little more narrow (1 1/8" vs. 1 1/2") to preserve the rectangle cross-section?

Thanks again for the help.

[Pat B]

1 1/8" is plenty of width for osage. What other dimensions were you shooting for? length, back profile, draw weight?
  You want your sides squared up with the back of the bow. With osage, the belly can be narrower than the back but you shouldn't have to with this stave.

[John Scifres]

When I work on a stave to see what kind of bow it will make, I like to square it up from the start.  Then it can begin being honest with you about its potential.  Take what the stave gives you.  Until you reveal all its secrets, you don't know what it is able to give.

[rogerbw]

Originally posted by Pat B:
What other dimensions were you shooting for? length, back profile, draw weight?
   

The stave is 67", and I'de like to use all of it. For draw weight, I'll be happy with anything over 40 lbs., which, as long as I don't screw it up too much, shouldn't be a problem for this hunk of wood.

As far as back profile goes, I would probably be able to give you a better answer if I knew what I was doing. I was thinking a flatbow in the longbow style. If anyone has a better design for this stave, I'de be all for it.

This picture was taken while I was working on the fifth ring down. I finally settled on the ninth ring, which is one of the thickest.

 

[Jack Skinner]

So you take the stave down to the growth ring you want. How thick is the stave now. As long as you have 3/4 or so you should be able to go 60 lbs but you will have to add material to handle. If your stave is thicker no issues at all. I have made several osage bows the stiff handle D bows at 1 1/8 inch width to mid limb or slightly more then taper to 1/2 nocks in 68 inch lengths and could go shorter for my 27in draw. I use short 1 to 1.5 inch fads. Handle 1 inch wide by 1 to 1.5 deep depending on hand size and preference. If you want a stiff handle bow I am sure others could give you lay outs that will work.

[George Tsoukalas]

Like John said it is what it is. Get the ring you want and make a bow.    Jawge