Osage Bow design question

[razorback]

I am getting close to final design of an osage stave and was interested in any input. It is going to be stiff in the handle, due to stave character, but from there I am open to suggestions. I was thinking of a design where the limbs thickness is almost the same from fade to tip and the taper comes from width changes. The limbs are 1 1/2" wide and 11/16" thick at the moment. One limb is 30" long and the other is 29" from end of the 2" fade. Handle and fade are 8". Lots of checks and cracks in stave so I want to give it the best chance possible to be a bow.

[DCM]

You have to say... how much bow.

For 50# @ 28", no worries generally but details matter.  I pic of all these check and craft features would help.

1 1/2" is a good width for osage, but when in doubt run the full width to mid limb, and tiller accordingly.  I personally don't find the "pyramid" shape all that compelling, other than for style reasons.  I tend to extend the fades more gradually and run full width a few inches.  Actually more like a parabolic shape.  With abrupt transition, getting the inner limb to work up to the handle, which I find desirable, is not as easily accomplished.  imho

[razorback]

DCM. Here are some photo's of the stave. I just checked an old post I did on this same stave and topic and you helped out there as well. So thanks for your continued support and interest.

 

 
 

[DCM]

I'd shoot that crack in the fade with some thin superglue.  Same remedy for checks.  Other than that stave looks perty clean.  Still haven't said target weight and draw lenght.  I've made a bunch of 64" to 67" osage bows.  Judging just from the picture, you won't be limited by your material.

[razorback]

Draw length is 28-29" and am shooting for something around 50#. The stave had lots of cracks and checks in it, so am not sure one of them wont blow up at any time. I have started to shape and floor tiller. I went straight for about 9" at 1 3/8"and then tapered it to 1 1/8 for 9" and finally tapered to 1/2" nocks. It is reflexed to 3" and has about 1-1 1/2inch of side warp that I will fix once I get it reduced some more.

[Roy Steele]

Through the years here's what works for me when it comes to Osage.Ima

[Roy Steele]

Through the years here's what works for me.I made all of my personal bows with stiff handles.But cut in a shelf as close to center shot as the stave wiil let me.1 1/2 Wide at the fade outs slightly taper to about 6 inchs from the tip.this is around 1 inch at this point then tapering to 3/8 at the nocks.
  These measurements may very a little depending on the stave.The last 4 inchs from the nock down I leave thin enough to stay stiff when I tiller the bow. This will help with hand shock.Ialso tiller as far down into the fades as I can.The
more of the limb working the better.
  There a few things that will help when you get to tillering.
 Get an inch square gride patteren to put behind your tillering board.Level your tillering board then your grid pattern to it.

[shamus]

1.5" is a good width for osage.


 a design for Osage that I like  

hope it helps.