Am I ready for the tillering tree?

[scrub-buster]

Ok, so I think I might be ready for the tillering tree.  I have something that resembles a bow.  It is down to a solid growth ring on the back.  I heated most of the twists out of it.  When I bend it on the floor, I get about 4-6" of bend.  I am afraid I am going to screw up somehow when I cut the nocks in.  Does anyone have any suggestions that would help?  Here are some pictures.

Here is the back.  It needs some fine sanding.
 

Here is the belly.
 

 

[pappy]

I just mark a line on the back about an inch down from the end,then on the belly side about a half in. futher then draw a line from back to belly on the side and file it in using a 5/32 chain saw file.Keep an eye on it and you can keep them straight across from each other.I file about file deep the first time.
   Pappy

[Art B]

You're looking good so far. I like to have my back and sides to finish grade at this point. That just leaves the belly to reduce. Just make sure to run you string groove marks ALL the way around the tip. Like Pappy, I mark in 1" on the back, but I cut the groove to the inside of the line (that way if I use an overlay the groove is then centered on the back side of the original line). I start the grooves first using a tile cutting hacksaw blade and clean that up using the same size file as Pappy. Good luck.

ART B

[George Tsoukalas]

"Ok, so I think I might be ready for the tillering tree."
What does that mean? Are you planning to string it with the short string or use a tillering string?
That looks suspiciously like a tillering stick. LOL.
There are buildalongs on my site that may help you.
Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[John Scifres]

Looks aweful thick to me.  Did you use a belt sander on that?  If so, you might stick with hand tools on your first one.  Here's a tillering tute I did a while back.   http://residents.bowhunting.net/sticknstring/tiller101.html

You don't have to cut nocks yet if you make a boot tiller like inthe tute.

[Shaun]

In Al's post he said to "MARK" the string grove all the way around. This does NOT mean to cut the string grove all the way around!!!!! Cut your nocks in the sides and around coming towards each other on the belly. Do not cut the back. If you want a string grove on the back side, you will have to add an overlay and cut into this - not the backing ring of osage.

The method I use is to cut one grove at an eyeballed 45 degree angle on one side with the top (backing side) about 1/2" from the end. Then flip the stick over and place the nock file in the first grove and mark the second side with a pencil using the file for a guide. Start the second grove and then check it by placing the file in the first grove again. Adjust the second grove angle as necessary to match the first. Blend them towards each other on the belly.

[Art B]

Thanks for clarifing that point Shaun. Marking the tip all the way around gives you a visual aid so you can get your SIDE grooves aligned correctly.

Looks more like an adjustable rope and pulley tree system there George. Or stick/tree combo?

ART

[scrub-buster]

That is a combo tillering tree/stick.  It has the pulleys and rope, and I drilled holes every inch with a peg.  That way I can hold the string still while using the tillering gizmo.  I was going to start with a long string first.  I did not use a belt sander on it.  I have been shaving the belly with a scissor scraper.  I agree that it is a little thick, but I don't want to take off to much and end up with a 35lb bow.  Everything I have been reading says that beginners usually end up taking off to much.  I was also thinking of using deer antler tip overlays.  What would be a good glue for that?  I picked up some TBIII this evening, would that work?

[Art B]

I have a combo tillering tree/stick similar to yours also. Plus a tree for stretching a bow out once it's braced with a permanent string. I use Paul Comstock's method (stretching a string from nock to nock while the bow is locked drawn down on the stick at brace height) of a temporary short string with my combo which I believe to be a superior method of judging tiller at brace height. It also allows you to square your bow on the stick. Good luck and keep us informed.

ART B

[John Scifres]

Where in Indiana do you live?