Author Topic: bandsaw blades help  (Read 811 times)

Offline pditto613

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bandsaw blades help
« on: April 18, 2009, 09:41:00 AM »
what bandsaw blade do you suggest for cutting out the handle on a glass laminated bow?  So far I haven't figured it out.  the ones that cut the wood good, dull the second they touch the glass. And the ones that cut the glass bogg and  burn the wood.  What's the secret?
"the older I get the better I was"

Online kennym

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2009, 11:50:00 AM »
You've got it! Glass kills wood blades,I have a Lennox carbide on both my saws,one I use to cut wood lams,the other cuts whatever else needs it.

So far it is still sharp,but I cut as little glass as I can.

They are kinda spendy tho,the 93.5" blade was about $125.00 delivered!
Stay sharp, Kenny.

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Offline mq32pa

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2009, 09:47:00 PM »
Contact Suffolk machinery? They make Timberwolf blades, and tell them what you want to cut. I think mine is a 1/2" bi-metal blade not sure of the teeth and it cuts out a glass bow with ease.

John

Offline pditto613

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2009, 06:31:00 AM »
I was considering getting a 12" disk sadnder to grind more and use the bandsaw less when taaper limbs and shaping the handle. Oone cost about the same as your carbide blade, Kenny.  The bimetal sound interesting.
"the older I get the better I was"

Online kennym

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2009, 02:02:00 PM »
I grind all my limbs,just be sure you have a dust collection system. Between glass and glue,it can't be good to breathe!!
Stay sharp, Kenny.

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Offline canid song

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2009, 04:12:00 PM »
what i often do for my shelf cutouts, thinning the handle/riser and the like is to use a coping saw with cheap blades. if they only last for one use [e.g. glas/wood lamination] then i'm out less than 50 cents, and i like the fine control they give me.

for tapering the limbs, i would agree, grinding is great. the bulk of removal can be done on a good sanding belt, and a rotary disk is good at fairing it up afterward.
Sailing the high sierras.

Offline bigbellybuck

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2009, 08:32:00 PM »
I cut my limbs out on my table saw, making sure I stay a good 1/8 inch outside the line, then I use a belt sander to finish grinding to the line. I've done this on about the last ten bows I've made and haven't had a problem. It dulls tablesaw blades too. I use one for this and keep one sharp just for wood. Be careful though.
I don't have a problem.  I can quit deer hunting anytime I want.

Offline elkslayer

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2009, 12:25:00 PM »
I use a carbide blade on my Jet 14 inch and I have no problems at all.

Offline Bob Sarrels

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Re: bandsaw blades help
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2009, 10:56:00 PM »
I have 2 bandsaws. An old Craftsman that I use for glass and a much better Delta for wood.  Kinda irks me on a couple of occasions when I was crippling a guy along on a bow he hit the wood saw with glass.  Blade is gone in a nanosecond.  I remove most of the limb cut with the bandsaw then go to the 80 " verticle sander for the clean line.  I like this size because I can get a full length gring on the limb sides.
Now then, get your weapons ~ your quiver and bow ~ and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me.  Gen. 27.3

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