Yew LB repair

[bigcountry]

Ok, so a few months ago I broke this yew longbow on its belly by bending the wrong way after having on a tiller tree.  Learned a tough lesson.  So I got a hold of this one yew billet.  I am thinking of cutting the yew bow in half, and trying to fit to some metal sleeves like 3R's sells and fitting a new limb.  This bow was an attempt to build the one like in TBB Vol1.  A semibend in the handle bow.  Now, if I put the sleeves on, its going to be stiff handled I realize, but its 69" long now.

Think its a good idea?  Or should I shop around for another billet and do a Z-splice and make a stiff handled yew bow?  The side that was not broken had a nice even tiller before it broke, so I guess the challenge would be to match it up.
Are sleeves very reliable and strong?

My dimensions around the handle are 1" X 1.25".  Do you think that is enough wood for a small sleeve from 3R?

Here is the bow with the billet.  I have the bow tie wrapped up together where it broke.
 
 

Here it is after the break.  The bottom limb is fine.
 

[Cody Roiter]

WOW Mate, I think I would shop around for another billet and do a Z-splice like you where thinking of doing..

Cody

[Hermann From Bavaria]

i might try the sleeves. i never tried it myself (cause theres no supplier for sleeves here in germany), but if it works you got a nice takedown-yew!

[Dano]

I don't think you have enough wood for the TD sleeves. I've never done a Z splice on a bow where the handle will bend, but I'd try it tho, what do you have to loose but a little time, a good tight glue joint and TBII oughta do it. If you don't get a tight joint use Urac 185.

[bigcountry]

Ok, I called 3R's and got them to give me the inside dimensions for a sleeve and its a little less than 1" and little less than 1.25".  So I am right there.  Wish I had more wood to be sure and get a tight fit.  I wonder if MT-13 epoxy will gap fill a bit and make it tight.

So I started adding up price of a sleeve, MT13 epoxy and it adds up over 50bucks, (for an experiement that might not work).  And then my mind started rattling thinking I could buy a good billet for that price.

I will have to think about it.

[Dano]

Yep, a little pricey for an experiment.    

[2treks]

Mt-13 will work and SHOULD be used with the metal.. or you could glue some scrap on and then re shape down to needed dim. If it does not work you can always reclaim you sleeve. Gary Davis has spliced two limbs together from two different broken bows and it comes out fine. He uses the 3-2 splice. I seen him do it one time with a yew limb and an osage limb and it worked fine.Did you ever see that Dano? David from NY. tillered it and said it was a fine bow. Just say HOKUS POKUS and do it. it will work. you will just need to re-tiller a bit.Good luck.
Chuck

[Dano]

Chuck, I heard Gary did that, I never got a chance to see it tho, I bet it was a fine bow. Yep, just do it, "HOKUS POKUS"!!!

   

[Bjorn]

The lower bow I made from 2 broken bows using a sleeve. Was it worth it! Sure, the bows were firewood.
 
The alignment is key in this project.
 

[bigcountry]

I took the billet down a bit and was thinking about this alignment issue.  So I thought about the best way to tackle this.  

I figured I could install the one side of the takedown on the almost finished limb.  So this will kinda be my reference.  And then before really reducing the billet at the tips especially, I will fit the other side of the sleeve.  That way, I can adjust the tips for alignment.

Any other tips?

[Bjorn]

That is a very good idea. Dry fit and rehearse all the steps-especially the alignment during dry-up, although with a fat half stave it will be less of a problem; but align in all directions anyway.
Jay St. Charles has a good write-up on installing sleeves. And Ted at Raptor Archery has the process down and sells the sleeves and glue.

[Bjorn]

Oh yeah, almost forgot..........the sleeves are soft metal-don't force fit anything or you will end up with a one piece.

[bigcountry]

Originally posted by Bjorn:
Oh yeah, almost forgot..........the sleeves are soft metal-don't force fit anything or you will end up with a one piece.

I got the sleeve, and the brass is so tight I can't get it out of the sleeve.  Surprised its so tight.

[Bjorn]

When new they are all like that. You need to sand it with 240-360 paper to get a good fit. One of those sandpaper wheels that mount on an electric hand drill are very helpful. Pay attention to how it goes together easier and keep it that way always. Be prepared for some fine filing too.
It will try your patience!
BTW a hardwood dowel and hammer are handy to separate the pieces. It is a bitch-I know!!

[mullet]

You know you have it perfect when it "POP'S", when you seperate them.