stupid question....

[Russell S.]

ok my bow form is about 80% done.  glueing the reverse tapers on now then the aluminum..(thank you kenny for the extra elm tapers)   i have 2 stupid questions.
1) when you measure a bow and say it is 64" do you mean a strait line from nock to nock? or do you mean 64 inches as measured along the run of the limbs from nock to nock?(like put a fiberglass tap on it to conform to the curves.)

2) do you screw and countersink the aluminum to the lower form or do you glue it, if glue what on earth sticks to aluminum?  right now i have been using TBII for the form,  homedepot doesn't feel it is necessary to stock TBIII (according to the sales rep "really there is no big difference"  guess he doesn't let his glue joints get exposed to the elements)  PC-7 will stick but i am concerned about it being too think and distorting the shape (and i am working on a budget here, daddy needs a new tree stand)

a point for any new builders:  this would have been another failed experiment with out the advice and guidance from kennyM and marty.

[kennym]

Hey Russel,
I don't even have anything on my last form besides wood. The router method leaves it plenty good for me. I just sanded it with a block carefully and lightly. Then wax the heck out of it and built a bunch of bows off it!!

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

Russell,

I have tried aluminum on one form and ended up tearing it off because it did not follow the curves exactly and I felt that it could have caused a "twist" where it was not perfectly on the form. I also had issues with the heads of the screws needing to be counter sunk and then hit with a file and then and filled with Bondo.  I saw it going bad so,  I quit and went back to Formica.  Since then I have stuck to my old standby of Formica.  It works for me why change?  It glues on easily with any contact cement.  

To answer your other question about bow length,  I use a tailors tape to measure the bow.  I measure on the back of the bow following all contours.

Just the way I do it.

pete

[Shakes.602]

I think the "Blocks" that Dean Torges Uses for his Forms are Really Cool!!    Isnt a Form something YOU can make as Difficult or as Easy to use? Like OverEngineering it?
  I havent built one, so I am NO Judge or Critic. Just Wondering. At first I thought an Aluminum Channel would be the way to as well. Now I am not so sure!! I always try to remember the KISS Method, and have shot myself in the foot many times by not keeping that Method in sight.    No Offense Intended either.  

[stickmonkey]

I recently finished my form and used the method Kenny M suggested. easy peasy. I did follow up the routing of the form with a 2 inch straight bit as it did give me the "feeling" of accuracy. Next light sanding on the drum sander and it was truly square.

[Russell S.]

i used the router method,  only 2 places did i mess it up.  back filled those spots and sanded up.  form is square checked it with the framing square after i put the tapers on.  thinking sanding, painting and waxing, like i have done with fiberglass molds.  does anyone use PVA on there form.  it is the bee's knees for Fiberglass molds.  thought i would give her 5 or 10 coats of mold release wax then some PVA.  still not sure about painting.  gel coat would be ideal but i dont see a way to get it on there and keep the shape true.
oh BTW i am a mechanic on a submarine, KISS is near and dear to my heart and maybe one of the hardest parts of engineering.

do you guys you Formica for your pressure strip as well?

[Jason Scott]

I made the mistake of screwing an aluminum strip down with wood screws once. I sanded them flush to the feel but when I pulled the bow off the form there were a few spots along the limbs that had dempled the fiberglass where the screws were. The stip does compress some but the screws were solid and didn't give. I did away with the aluminum and went with a wood strip glued down with contact cement.